Valuable Resources

With inflation of food prices and rumors of food shortages, it’s really been on my heart about how and where my family sources its food. My heart especially breaks because if not in my own communities, there are most definitely places in this world where people will die from lack of food. I have connections with people outside of the US and it breaks my heart with just how food vulnerable people are.

My choices in food sourcing are not going to help people in different countries. Although I love my dream world where people in first world countries make individual choices, where as a collective all the extra food we don’t claim for ourselves gets reallocated to countries, places, and communities that are in more of a dire need of. That is my naive side that I hang on to, because I know full well that this is not how the world works.

So I focus on my local community. I have neighbors who are more food vulnerable than I am. So in being sensitive to my neighbors, who I can help, I have been changing how I shop to produce the foods from scratch that I have the knowledge to make. At various times I’ve seen the bread and dry pasta shelves bare. Even with stock at a good sale price, I still I don’t buy those items because these are two commodities I can make for myself. By not making those purchases, it frees up those resources for the families who don’t yet have the skills to make those products for themselves.

But I’m not content with just providing for my family. Not when I have the ability to help other families to provide for themselves.

Today I am focusing on helping anyone who wants to learn how to make their own bread.

I don’t know about your local market prices, but a loaf of bread runs for about $5. This does not mean that there isn’t cheaper bread to be had. But this is the average price if you look at all the shelf labels. Before my boys were born the average price was $1 a loaf, no matter what the brand name. So if for no other reason, now is a good time to learn how to make bread so you very easily can see how you can save a couple dollars every shopping trip, where you can use elsewhere in your family budget.

I want to teach you how I made No Waste Starter.

Why is this important?

When I made my Covid-Starter I researched the heck out of making a starter and the different schools of thought for bread making. Every starter tutorial out there always starts with a rather large quantity of flour and each day you throw out or discard cook half your starter. Even two years ago my thoughts were about how much of a waste of precious resource this method is. At the time flour was very plentiful, but my head went to where I can make bread when I don’t have flour to waste. And now we are most certainly in a time where many people are now finding themselves in a place where flour cannot be wasted.

I present to you my photo journal from two years ago where I made starter without discarding.

Being a historian, by education, I was fascinated with how bread has been made through the history of mankind. The feature that took over my creativity is the bread trough/bowl. Before mason jars, that we all use today, or starter crocks families used a wood trough or bowl to keep their starter.


Please note that you need to pay attention to your starter if you are using wood products to make your starter. Make sure the wood dish is clean and free of chemicals. Also note that wood holding liquid can bread bacteria. When making starter, there should be no colors or scents coming from your starter. New starter will not begin to have a sour smell until the end of a week. So if you find mold, spores of color, or any scent that does not smell like sourdough bread, throw out the starter and begin again. Wood products are viable vessels. But note that all of these potential contaminations can be found using any vessel, not just wood. So make sure your vessel is clean and you keep a clean work space while you cultivate your starter.


The vessel that you in the following pictures is an unfinished teak wood tray. The sides are raised, making it ideal of containing the starter as it grew through the feeding cycles.

DAY 1

For DAY 1 I cleaned my teak wood tray and my hands well, making sure that all soap was thoroughly rinsed off. Once ready, I mixed 2 Tablespoons of flour with equal amounts of water and mixed it together by hand on the tray. When finished mixing the pancake like batter I covered the tray with a clean tea towel to keep any foreign materials from falling into my starter and contaminating it. And then I just leave the tray out on my countertop. (My fridge was already covered with things confiscated from my boys. All my parents out there know what I’m talking about. But your countertop is just fine for your starter. It needs to be warm but in a place left alone.)

The science behind making your own starter yeast is that the water flour mixture becomes home to the natural yeast that floats in the air and lives on your hands.

DAY 2

I fed the yeast once in the morning and once in the evening. Each feeding was 2 more Tablespoons of flour and water, mixing/kneading it with clean hands. (I added the flour first and then add water to loosen it up and facilitate better incorporation. After each feeding I covered the tray with my tea towel.

As you see in the pictures, at the beginning of each feeding there was a crust on the tray and on the starter. This crust was easily dissolvable and reincorporated into the starter.

The bottom four pictures show you what I was looking at once I started working water and flour into the starter. I also show you the window test (how you tell in bread making that gluten is being formed in the bread–pull a portion up and watch how gravity pulls your dough). There is no uniformity here. So I wasn’t looking to see very much yeast activity. However, I know there is some yeast already active. Look in the first picture and you will see a couple of air bubbles (the visible presence of yeast respiration), with a very large one just off center on the bottom.

DAY 3

I continued with the morning and evening feeding of flour and water. After rehydration and incorporation of the crust and feeding, I covered the started back up.

I was excited today because there was more of a visible change that was taking place. There’s the increase in mass, but more importantly there was an increase in yeast activity. The bubbles were more prominent. (The bottom left picture is the best one for showing how much the yeast activity increased.) The middle right picture is the size of my starter, right before its feeding. The middle left and center pictures show you the change that has happened in just one day with a window test. The bottom center picture shows you the gluten structure that has formed, how sticky my starter became.

Why was I focusing on the gluten structure?

Gluten is not needed for yeast production. But I made a focus on capturing this information because gluten is what keeps the air bubbles in your bread. Gluten is an elastic structure. Without it you don’t have a way of seeing the amount of anaerobic respiration that is being produced. You can tell the health of your yeast by the size and amount of bubbles produced.

So while all the other starter methods you can read about don’t talk about gluten or keep this dry of a starter, this was an amazing process for me. I was able to see what was going on in yeast production. I could see that I was on a right track. And if you want to talk more about the science of yeast making, I can guarantee you that I have more to talk about than what is presented here. In fact, if you’re a homeschooling parent and want to have an AMAZING practical experiment for your student to see and understand respiration, this is most definitely for you!!!

The bottom right picture is my picture of impatience. I literally couldn’t wait to fry up some of the starter after a feeding. It didn’t taste great, but it didn’t taste bad. It has a sour flavor to it, but not in the classical sourdough sour. It was more like a citrus sour. It was not palatable. In fact, I took a nibble and just decided not to finish it. So when they say you can’t eat from a starter this early, it’s because it’s just not palatable.

Now if I was hard up for something to eat… I might be tempted to eat my sample here. However, I know I have enough food reserves where I’m not pressed to make this an eat vs. go hungry situation. If you are in an eat or go hungry situation try to get your yeast established before getting to this point. I would not recommend it at this point.

Side Note: I changed up my method a little bit here.

I didn’t want to keep having to deal with this crust, so after the second feeding I opted to get rid of the tea towel and switch to laying a piece of plastic wrap on top. I wanted to prevent the dehydration (which formed the crust) and retain the water content. I did not seal off the plastic wrap on the sides, just placed it on top so the starter was still somewhat exposed to the yeast in the air. I wasn’t afraid of not having yeast exposure because I was still kneading the starter with my hand for a few minutes each feeding. Plus I have the evidence that yeast is already present.

DAY 4

OMG I was literally doing a happy dance! Look at all those bubbles!!!!

Plastic wrap was most definitely NOT the material to use. Yes it did not inhibit yeast production. It’s the fact that the starter heavily clung to the plastic. There was no way I could pull or scrape starter off of the plastic wrap. There was also no way that I could reuse it. So if I’m trying to not throw any resource out, plastic wrap has better uses elsewhere. Here it’s a onetime use and a waste. (See below for what I switched to using.)

By having a less permeable cover, there was less dehydration, which I felt better about. It made the feeding quicker. And today I kept up with the morning and evening feeding.

As you can see, here in these bottom three pictures, there is more structure and less stickiness of the starter. When I pan fried this up, it was palatable fry bread. Thinking back now, after two years, I should have put a pinch of salt into the dough–bread is made up of flour, water, yeast, and salt. That is all you really need. The salt would have been something other than no flavor. Think of a salt free cracker, that is where this starter is at. If you are in dire need for food, you’re now at a point of having viable food.

I had these reusable sandwich wraps in my drawer. It’s a thicker plastic with velcro closures. I had to position the velcro on the sides so I didn’t have to clean them with every feeding. This plastic covering was a dream for yeast production because it didn’t fold in on itself and allowed me to scrape the starter off. The starter didn’t stick as much to it either. (See bottom left picture of Day 5 to see how little starter clung to the covering.

DAY 5

This was another day of morning and evening feeding. The reusable sandwich wrap still allowed a crust to form, but it was much more manageable and something I could live with for a balance between sustainability of resources and maintaining hydration. My goal is still to literally be hands on with my starter. So I still opted for the use of the tray instead of switching to a different vessel.

I was very pleased with the yeast production. And when I fried up a bit of the starter, there was now a very faint sourdough flavor to it. So that was evidence enough for me that my starter was ready for bread production.

Everyone else that I had read with about making a starter, none of them told me what it that you’re looking for is. They all just state 7 days like it’s some magical marker or transformation that happens at that point in time. I’m open to hear from anyone as to why you insist on waiting 7 days before a starter is ready for bread production. However, with years of baking bread with conventional dry fast acting yeast, and with scientific understanding of what the function of yeast is in bread, here are my indicators that your yeast is ready:

  • You can see evidence of yeast production: your starter has the same amount of bubbles as you would see in a slice of bread.
  • When you fry up starter, it produces palatable flat bread.

Okay, everyone who talks about starter says that you can’t make bread until your starter has doubled after a feeding. My yeast was already doubling before Day 5. So this indicator was not relevant for me. The two important things, hands down, are evidence of yeast being present and flavor. You won’t eat bread (whether in loaf form or flat bread) if it doesn’t taste good.

I should also note that the starter does by now have a very faint sourdough smell.

DAY 6

This was my first day of baking my own bread from my starter. I chose to make boule bread. One, the amount of yeast wasn’t as much as I keep now, but I had enough for the first recipe I tried with enough left over to feed and store. So the pictures you see here for Day 6 were the bread making process of the different kneading times and the transformation that you see with the dough as you go through the process. It went from rough lumpy looking to that beautiful smooth ball.

I’m not going to focus on this recipe or the process because it’s labor intensive. I haven’t even made a boule in several months. This is not my go to and not exactly practical for today’s busy schedule. I love boules and can probably get better height out of them, but I have a recipe and process that is much more mom friendly and something I can make every night for bread the next day. But I will talk more about that next week. I’ll give you my every day recipe next week with also my process of making rolls. Again that’s next week.

After I made this recipe, I fed the remainder of my starter and I actually transferred it into a quart size mason jar. One, my boys were starting to reach onto the counter and I didn’t want to have my work wasted because a curious boy decided to tip the tray over and knock my yeast on the floor. Two, I wasn’t (and still am not) in a position where I need to make bread every day. So for flour conservation, I put my starter in my fridge. The fridge slows the anaerobic respiration of the yeast so that you are able to feed your yeast and it is perfectly happy until you make your bread in a week.

What is the longest I’ve left my yeast untouched in the fridge?

I think it was 17 days. And boy was my yeast sad and weak. BUT even with weak yeast, I was still able to use that yeast without using a single discard and wasting precious resources. It took a little longer for my bread to proof, but the yeast pulled back in the dough and in my jar.

When do you pull your starter out of the fridge to use?

My best results have been when I take the starter out 1-3 hours before I want to use it. It warms the yeast up to an active state. But more importantly, more times than not, my yeast hasn’t finished its cycle and doubled in the fridge. But allowing it to finish it’s doubling in volume on the counter, it gets the yeast into its strongest and happiest state.

Have you used your starter while it was still cold and not yet doubled?

Yes! The yeast is still good. It’s just dormant and hasn’t used its entire food source. Here’s the drawback to using cold yeast. Your bread recipe liquid is warmed to an optimum temperature to really get your yeast excited, happy, and ready to eat. When it’s cold and put into a warm liquid, the temperature change can be a shock. And it does take longer for your yeast to get happy and get busy proofing your bread. So it’s not ideal using your yeast cold, but it’s not a deal breaker.

Remember, yeast is a living organism. It has certain conditions that make it happy and productive. It’s so easy to think of yeast as a non-living organism, but that’s not the truth. Yeast lives. It has an environment that is ideal. And when you recognize that, you can set your yeast up for great success in making bread.

When do you feed your starter?

I take my starter out of the fridge. Get it to room temperature and double in volume. Once the starter has doubled, I measure out the portion I need for my bread recipe. What remains in my mason jar, I clean up my jar by scraping down the remaining yeast with a silicone scraper. Then I add the flour and water, mix it well and put the lid back on. Then back to the fridge it goes until I cook another batch of bread.

How much do you feed your starter?

I always keep 400 grams of starter on hand. It fills a quart size mason jar about half way. This makes it easy to tell when my yeast has doubled without needing to do the rubber band trick that I saw all the time in tutorial videos.

Whatever weight of starter I take out for a recipe is what I replace with weight of flour and water for feeding. For example, if I take out 300 grams of starter, I put back in 170 grams of flour and 130 grams of water. The appearance of my starter is a little bit looser than you see in the pictures above, but I do keep my starter thicker than what I see everyone else keeping theirs at.

The most important reason for this is that this is what makes my yeast the most happy. My yeast remains strong and healthy and I have only had hooch in my mason jar one time in 2 years. The hooch formed because my water content was too high for the flour content. The yeast ate through all the flour and couldn’t use all the water. So it’s my opinion that if you have a problem with hooch, try feeding your starter less water.

Besides hooch production, excess water is going to add to the odds that you will through your starter environment off and make it ripe for other things to grow in your starter like bacteria and mold–which you will have to throw your starter out.

Another problem happens with too much water, the smell of acetone. I haven’t had this problem with my flour based starter, but it did happen with my potato starter. I’ll talk more about this is the post for the potato starter. But it happened because there was too much water. And this problem you can solve by adding salt into your starter. The salt balances out the starter’s environment and makes it inhospitable for the presence of bacteria that has started to set up shop in your starter. So know that the moment you smell your starter having an off scent, don’t wait to see if it goes away. Add a teaspoon or two of salt and be preventative. If you wait, you run the chance of losing your starter.

Is All Purpose Flour okay, or do I need bread flour?

I prefer All Purpose Flour. One time I bought a 25 pound bag of bread flour and immediately regretted it with the first batch of bread I made. Bread flour is supposed to only have a higher content of wheat protein in it to create more gluten. However it threw the salt content off on my bread. Even after I lowered the salt content in my recipe (by half), the flavor of the bread was still off. You may or may not notice the change in flavor, but I did. My boys did. So do not feel pressured into needing specialty flour to be able to make bread at home. In fact, I’ve received comments (from friends and family that I’ve gifted bread to) that what I made them tasted like high quality restaurant bread. And all I used was All Purpose Flour.

Side note: I’ve tried working with other flours to make gluten free bread. I’ve not yet found success in that experimental process. I have found success in making gluten free starter from potato–which will be featured in an upcoming post (it should be in two weeks). If I finally find gluten free flour (mixture) that I love in bread, I will quickly and excitedly share that because I have great love for bread. But I’m not going to share anything that I’m not passionate about.

Is there a difference between bleached and unbleached flour?

As far as quality of bread, I haven’t noticed a difference that makes me have a preference one way or another. I personally like using unbleached flour over all for everything. So that’s generally what I have in my pantry. However, you should use the flour that you have available to you and don’t have stress over it. And don’t let people pressure you one way or another.

If you have flour that just isn’t working for you, there are ways to alter a recipe to make it more palatable for you. I had to change recipes all the time when I was using dry active yeast, because I hated the flavor that yeast produced. My easiest and quickest way of altering it without changing the results of my bread crumb was simply by adding herbs. My go to herbs were always adding about 1 teaspoon of each: garlic powder, onion powder, and oregano. The salt content never changed. The dry/wet ratio never changed. And there was just enough flavor adjustment that I could eat the bread and it didn’t change it enough to ruin the overall sandwich flavor whether grilled cheese, peanut butter and jelly, or any combination of meat sandwiches.

Every master bread maker will tell you that you have to respect the ratios of the ingredients: flour, water, salt, yeast. Anything you add to that for flavoring is just a bonus. But I’ll talk more about that next week.

If there are any questions that you have, please leave them in the comments. I want to make sure you have all the information you need.

While this week’s post is on the outlying area of being creative I did want to share with you some new Cut Files that are related in subject. Be sure to visit my store to see what all is available for sale!

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What If I Fail?

It doesn’t matter how many years you’ve been crafting and DIYing. You will fail. I fail.

What you do with failure determines what your future will look like. What your end product will look like. You can finish in a failure. Or you can take an option and end on a different note.

In fact, here is my most recent fail and how I pulled out of it.

Two weeks ago I started working on a Teacher Appreciation gift for my son’s pre-school teacher. First, let me just say that it’s difficult coming up with a meaningful gift for a teacher that they don’t get a million of and you’re just one of those parents who giving a gift card just doesn’t feel personalized enough.

I help out in my son’s class and noticed that his teacher had one clip board. It’s pretty standard and who knows if it was on its last leg or was a work mule. But I do know that with home schooling my older son that a single clip board is not enough for me. And this was what birthed the idea of making a personalized clip board for our pre-school teacher.

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I find the diamond painting crafts a very relaxing no thinking type of craft. With that experience, I had high hopes of having fun and relatively easy time with this. What I should have counted on is that the Jewel and Metal Glue would have had a mind of its own and gotten all over the place.

I should have set up more protection against glue betrayal. With the print out of the design on the back side of the clip board, I can see exactly what my work field was going to look like. I should have taped on protective paper (just spare crafting paper) to protect the exposed board that was not being worked on.

As it was the glue, coming out of the tube, came out at larger quantity than I needed for the small text on the top. What I needed, to control glue quantity, was a tooth pick. It provided enough glue to adhere the gems, and kept the glue of glopping up and making a further mess. However, the clear glue also found ways of transferring to other parts of my hand and got on the board. The crafter who recommended this glue to me (and other crafters) said that it dried clear. And I was under the impression that it would be relatively invisible.

Yeah, not so much.

IF you can keep the glue minimal, it hides quite nicely. IF you get impatient or frustrated, the glue does travel. It does clump up. It does not dry invisible.

I also want to mention that the gemstones were the actual frustrating part. The tweezers that came with them did not pick up well or easily. The white pencil that came with them worked maybe half the time. I actually had to pull out a spare diamond painting tool and use that. The disadvantage that comes into play is the gem glue. It acts like a super glue and builds up. It causes the gems to stick to the tool. So make sure you take the time and clean whatever tool you are using regularly. By keeping the glue buildup to a minimum, you will keep the frustration down a little.

Tips that I have for my next time:

  • Fully tape off the non-work area
  • Try to not use the tiny gemstones
  • Don’t be hasty, use a tooth pick for glue application
  • If using the side of your hand, put tape on the side of your hand (to replace every now and then to prevent hand transferring of glue)
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Correcting the Failure

There were a few ideas that I had to redeem the glue failure of this project. Had the failure just been hand transferring of glue, I would have made other icons, “pows”, comic speech bubbles, etc to add more of a graphic design. However the glue failure was mostly an eye sore around the text with the stones, where the glue was just too thick.

I opted for acrylic paint to cover the glue. On top of the paint were glitter glue and a layer of fine glitter.

Step One: Tape off your Comic Speech Bubble. With cutting the edges, it allowed for the continuation of the lines and making the edges as varied as you want them. Just make sure that you press your edges down well so that the paint and glue don’t feather under the tape.

Step Two: Paint. Between the letters and around the gemstones, I used an acrylic paint pin. The edge of the pen is just more firm and easier to manipulate than a paint brush.

Step Three: Add glue and glitter. Once the excess glitter is shaken off, peel the tape off of the clip board.

The wrinkles that you see here is just the uneven application of the glitter glue. I was playing with texture to see if I could get a comic sunbeam pattern.

Step Four: Tape off the clip board for sealing with clear acrylic spray paint. This paint will keep the glitter from shedding. (I sprayed two coats of paint.)

There’s two ways of reapplying the tape. The tape can be put right on the glitter line. Or, as I chose, I offset the tape so that I could seal the edges of the glitter, but also add a simple edge to the design. The clear acrylic paint creates a glazed appearance.

Be sure to press down all the tape edges well. If the edges are not fully pressed, it leaves the opportunity of the clear paint to feather under the masking tape.

Once you have sprayed your last coat, you are ready to remove the tape and paper. If you choose to remove the tape with the paint still wet, there is the chance that there will be some feathering. If you wait until the spray paint is dry, there will not be that potential transference.

As you can see with this side by side, particularly around the -her of teacher, it is possible to clean up glue failure. There is a trade off of not being able to keep a minimalist design esthetic. However, there is light at the end of the failure tunnel. Sometimes you can remove errors that just can’t be erased.

No matter what you are working on, take heart. If something goes wrong, it is not the end. You can fix it. Take a deep breath. Look at your options and see what all is available. If you have more than one option, try to visualize what it will look like if you go down that route. Which route is going to get you in a better place in the fewest amounts of steps? Which route is going to eliminate the failure in what you’re working on? Not all solutions are equal. But the more options you have the more you hope you have for your end product.

Teacher Super Power was the file used today. It can be found here!

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Resizing Critters

With Easter tomorrow there is a common crafting problem that pops up with those cute egg and sucker holders…resizing.

Not all eggs are sized the same. Not all suckers are sized the same. There are even some holders for chocolate balls. Not all chocolate balls are the same size.

I’ve seen more frustrated crafters than I care to mention. Either the designer miss-sized the holes, so things don’t fit or the crafter bought a candy that was not standard size for the file they bought.

The good news is that you don’t have to throw out the files that didn’t work for you. All you need to do is resize your file in your cutting program. And I’m going to show you how.

Resizing Your Critters

Step 1: Measure the diameter of your egg, sucker, or chocolate.

Step 2: (After checking to make sure your entire critter is grouped, to make sure you resize everything in proportion) Make a circle that fits the hole. You will use this circle to verify you have reduced or enlarged your critter to the size you need it. (See Photo 1 above)

Step 3: Check your program’s measurement type and decide if you’re going to do your measurement based off of your objects height or width. (See Photo 2 above)

You will notice in the photos that I have my measurements set to centimeters. The reason for this is because the plastic ornaments I’m using were sized in the metric system. I love designing in Inkscape because I can switch back and forth between the metric and imperial system with just a drop down menu.

The ornament I’m sizing down for is 4 cm.

Step 4: Select All: your entire critter and your sizing circle. Then increase or decrease your critter as you need.

This step will take a little time, because your entire critter is not going to be directly proportional to the hold diameter. I’m sure there’s a math equation that you could come up with to get you the answer every time. I am not a mathematician. So I use the computer program to do the work for me.

Step 5: Stop sizing in accordance to what you’re sizing for. (See Photo 4 above)

As I mentioned, I’m sizing down for a 4 cm plastic ornament. The ornament has no lip, other than the tab to string the ornament. And the caterpillar holder that I’m using does not have a base to deposit and hold the ornament.

If you’re using a cut file that holds your egg, sucker, or chocolate ball, you don’t have to be precise with your hole sizing. You just need the whole holder to be big or small enough to precisely hold your sweets.

However with a plastic ornament (I needed to use up my 3 cm and 4 cm ornaments that just are NOT standard size for any cut file on the market) I need to have a pretty precise hole size. I need to have it snug to keep the project together. So I made the hole slightly less than 4 cm so the tension of the two pieces of cardstock (glued together) was enough to hold the ornament with no other crafting tricks.

Step 6: Cut your file!

Obviously I didn’t resize in my cutting software. My software does not have a measuring system conversion tab. It’s permanently set in the Imperial measurement system.

If you find that you are also resizing outside of your cutting software, always make note of the height and width of your entire critter. This will allow you to quickly resize your entire critter in your cutting software without the guess work.

Let Me Do the Math For You

I want to make conversion easy for you, if you decide to go with my Caterpillar Ornament cut file!

Here are the measurements I used to make these Caterpillars for my boys.

Small Caterpillar3 cmHeight 2.7″ / 6.85 cm
Medium Caterpillar4cmHeight 3.6″ / 9.15 cm
Cheat Sheet for converting the Caterpillars for full ornaments.

3 cm OrnamentCircle Back Cover 3.5 cm / 1.38″
4 cm OrnamentCircle Back Cover 4.5 cm / 1.77″
Another option is to use half of an ornament and use decorative paper for the back cover.

Tootsie Pop3 cmHeight 2.7″
Dum Dum2 cmHeight 1.85″
Cheat Sheet for converting my Caterpillar Design into sucker holders!

Honestly, with converting you could go as large as you want to. You could size up even more for gifting sox, underwear, baby onsies, and baby burp clothes. Literally you can convert to package any kind of gift in a new way!!!

What do you do when it all goes wrong?

Let’s be honest. Sometimes we forget to resize something. Or we think the designer made it correctly, but our cutting software program uploads the file at non-original dimensions (which has happened!) Or there’s an entirely different reason. Maybe the item you’re crafting with is not uniform in size (which happens with cheaply made items).

That is what I ran into with another designer’s file while I was finishing my Easter crafting for my boys. I had used this other designer’s file for Rabbits with my 5 cm and 6 cm plastic ornaments. I had also gotten her Chick file. I had to make conversions for her files because all my ornaments were smaller than hers, for which she used to design her file. The Rabbits turned out perfect. The Chicks were hit and miss. The 5 cm Chicks turned out near perfect. The 6 cm Rabbits were perfect. But the 6 cm Chicks were too small!

Now if I were making these for clients, of course I would make the adjustments and make them new. However we all know that my boys are just going to rip into the cardstock and go straight for the candy! They’re not going to notice any flaws. So I’m free to make corrections.

The 6 cm Chicks (on the left with ribbons) had front bellies that just would not seal to the back cover. I mean we are talking eye sore, obviously not the right size at all. So to solve this problem I took ribbon bows and curled the ribbon down over the mistakes. Hot glue is amazing for tacking ribbon down in precise locations.

For the 5 cm Chicks (on the right), the half ornaments were having the issue of not staying in place at all. So I pulled out my glitter glue sticks and glued around the entire circular edge. I might have had smoother edges had I used Elmer’s glue and actual glitter. However, with a full weekend ahead and running out of crafting time, I opted for the glitter glue for the glue and done option.

The lesson I learned with embracing the imperfect (for a situation that doesn’t demand perfection) is to think outside the box. Cover up, fill the gaps with extra accessories, glue… it can all add to the beauty of hand crafting.

So if resizing is not exactly your cup of tea, do not fear. Don’t get anxious. Get close to being what you need and use your other skills to make it work. After all, a cut file is just a blank slate for you to make it entirely yours with the touch of your creativity.

Happy Easter!

Files Used In This Post

You can purchase Caterpillar Ornament and Floral Top Hat here.

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Living Life In Color

Options For Creating Faux Stain Glass Windows

Color planning in my cutting software

With the increase of daylight, the approach of spring, and the first thoughts of Easter sprout ideas of how to bring new life and color into our lives.

This week end I’m participating in a crafting challenge. And one of the group crafts was a faux stain glass window.

When I go into these challengers, I focus on using the supplies in my office and only make a new supply purchase if I don’t have an item, or cannot think of an alternate item. Can I use a flat canvas instead of a framed canvas? Have my boys recently broken a toy that I can give a second life to? Have I recently purchased something that came in beautiful packaging that I can use to add dimension or further details?

I LOVE creating multi-medium products!

For this faux stain glass project, I didn’t have a framed piece of glass. (There are products on the market for making faux stain glass.) And I didn’t make that purchase because I have glass items I could pull from. What I chose to use was a half completed family schedule project.

I finally completed our family schedule for my early readers.

For over a year this picture frame hung, waiting for the inspiration for how to complete it. Do you have a project, or dozen, like that?

Well, this was the perfect glass for me to work with. All the vinyl already on the glass was placed on the front of the pane. And for faux stain glass, all the work is done on the back.

If you want to make a faux stain glass for your holiday switch out, an upcoming event, or as a fun project with your children, this is perfect for you. I’m working on my own designs to add to my shop. You might find another cut file artist who have some stain glass patterns. Or you can use a blank coloring book picture (children’s cartoon coloring book, adult coloring book, a blank mandala, or any other image). For these pages, all you have to do is upload them into your cutting machine program. When cutting out your glass outline, use a permanent vinyl that is the same color on the front and back. If you choose a vinyl that is printed or colored on one side and white on the back, you will have a white outline from your viewing side of your glass.

One common problem you may not avoid is your faux stain glass lines not releasing from your transfer tape. I have never had difficulty transferring to glass before. But even with all the tricks I know, I scrapped my first cut of vinyl and had to go with a Take Two.

I’m not sure if the problem was this pane of picture frame glass, the size of the project (10″ x 13″), or that my transfer tape was too sticky. But I did have to use my nails to scrape off the bottom quarter of my vinyl. So I adhered the transfer tape to both legs of my pants. I got the tack down to a barely sticky level. The vinyl still lifted in a couple of places, but at lease it released. The next time I do this technique with vinyl I am going to use transfer paper and see if the less tack released better.

An example of some extensive lifting of vinyl

To minimize the amount of lifting I recommend starting in a corner and slowly folding the transfer tape back on itself. As you start to see the lift, immediately start to press it back down with your finger. If you go too quickly, you will more thank likely have large sections pull back up from the glass. With the aid of your weeding tool, you can reposition and press down. However, it becomes more difficult to prevent creases in the vinyl when the uplifting sections get longer. So the sooner you can press these pieces down the better.

Another common problem is trapped air bubbles. You may not see it on this back side. But it is obvious from the front of the glass.

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To overcome air bubbles, you will want to pierce the vinyl with the sharp point of our weeding tool or other needle. With a way for the air to escape, you can now use your finger nail to press the air out. This will also press the vinyl down. When you flip the glass back over you should notice that the bubble is gone.

If the air did not escape the bubble, then go back in with your weeding tool and make the hole a little bigger.

There have been several times I’ve done this on other projects. Most of the time the hole seals itself up. In a worst case scenario there will be a small wrinkle. But it will only be visible from the back side.

Once your vinyl is laid, you are ready for the fun part. Painting!

This time around, I tested a few different application methods to help you decide how you want to make your faux stain glass. In the picture below you will notice that the paint looks different between the greenery, tulips, and sky/clouds. I used three different preparations of acrylic paint. But in the past I have also used washable children’s finger paint and tempera paint. So don’t think you are limited to paint choices.

This is the paint side of the glass pain. You can see the difference of the three different acrylic techniques described below.

Glue Mixed With Acrylic Paint

What you see on the greenery is a mixture of Mod Podge with a couple drops of acrylic paint.

Depending on the directions you read, you might be told to use Mod Podge, white glue, or clear glue. The bottom line is, they’re all glue and they’re going to act the same. The problem I had with this method is actually a couple fold. First, glue clumps and thickens horribly the longer you work with this mixture. And even with a fine painting brush, your painting surface is going to increase the longer you work with the glue. With just the greenery portion, the tip of my brush doubled in size by the time I finished. So to combat the thickening glue paint mixture, start with your smaller/finer detailed areas first and end with your larger surface areas.

Another problem that I had with this method was the inconsistency of pigment placement. It didn’t matter what brush strokes I used, the color inconsistency was worse than a dog’s fur that is suffering from hot spots.

I kept flipping my glass over to check the visibility and progress. A second coat did not smooth things out. In the end I had to apply a third coat (by which the glue was already thick) where I was blobbing on dots right next to each other. Fortunately, at this point I was working with two shades of green. I took a toothpick and “drew in” leaf veins, blending in the shades. It brought a cohesion that was greatly missing.

My recommendation with this method: apply your glue/paint liberally. If you are using more than one color or shade in a single section, apply first at your lines and then work your way in to where you want the colors/shades to meet.

Acrylic Paint

My favorite paint to work with is acrylic paint. If it were possible to be in tune with an art medium, this is tied for first place with me. (It’s partner in crime is fabric.)

I was quickly frustrated with the glue mixture, that I decided to go straight to acrylic paint by itself. You will see this demonstrated in the blue sky and white clouds. (The clouds are not visible in the final product, because I painted the back of the picture frame holder white for cohesion.)

If you want paint brush stokes to add character to your glass, this is probably the medium of choice for you. The sky I applied with side to side brush strokes. The clouds I applied with circular strokes. So this is very easy to add textures and definition to your glass.

Here is the problem with this method. The front and back of your glass are going to look different. The front of the glass automatically gives the appearance of gloss. When acrylic dries, the finish is matte. Not to mention, if you’re choosing acrylic you’re choosing your stroke pattern. Your pattern is going to take precedence over painting over the finite edge of your vinyl (or permanent marker if that was the tutorial/directions your chose to follow).

That being said, with all the care and precautions I took, I was able to stay in the lines better with plain acrylic than I was with the glue and acrylic mixture. There was absolutely noway I could prevent going over the lines with the glue.

With these first two options, there was absolutely no way that I could keep the lines clean so that both sides were presentable. And I tried.

So that leads me to the third option I tested.

My recommendation: if you want visible brush strokes or create an umbre effect, this method is for you.

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Acrylic Paint Pens

I chose this paint method for the tulip section, because I love visiting the Tulip fields each year. I love the bearded tulips and the multi colored ones alike. And if you couldn’t guess, I have an affinity for the red tulips with yellow tips.

And the acrylic pens were perfect for this kind of detail!

Again, I used the materials that i already had in my crafting stash. My acrylic pens are generic, but they did the job. And I can’t wait to purchase a better quality product to use.

For as much as I loved this method the best, over all the numerous products and techniques I’ve ever used on glass, they still had their own drawbacks. My number one problem is that the tips were so small in comparison to the size of my project. It’s a good thing that I find coloring calming and an avenue to my happy place. This was probably the most time consuming paint application.

Trial and error with this product is that the paint pen wants to apply a layer of paint too thin. I regularly had to shake the paint down to the tip. And about halfway through the tulips, I had to compress the tip to purposely create a small pool of paint to spread out.

Another draw back for this application method is that you cannot blend your colors. I, for one, have a pet peeve about muddying my pens. They can be ink, watercolor, or paint. I cannot muddy my tips. I need true colors. And because of this preference I worked with the yellow first, then went back through with the red. Even with my toothpick trick, the yellow was too dry to blend with using that method.

My recommendation: if you want to blend with the pens,work sections at a time. And if you like keeping your tips clean, leave a hair line separation between colors.

Another bonus for this method is that you have complete control over every application line of the paint. You have full control over not painting on or over the lines for each section. So if you want to have a flawless back and front, for duo viewing, this method is a must!

Drying Times

Maybe your method of choice is less about application and more about drying time. Believe me, I’ve conscientious about this because I have young children. Anything that takes long drying times I have to safe guard unless I want smears, prints, or transfers to my furniture and walls.

Acrylic Paint was the quickest. Especially since I only needed one coat of paint. The sections were dry pretty much when I finished the tulips. I give it an estimate of 20 minutes. As I mentioned before, acrylic paint dries with a matte finish. So the bonus here is that you don’t have to test touch to see if it is done drying. You see the difference.

The Acrylic Pen comes in second place for drying time. I have no estimate for you because on glass there was no noticeable change that I could see. The finish is just as glossy as when you first apply it. I had to test touch for dryness. I didn’t have a clock in front of me, so it could have been a ten minute dry time or twenty (from first painted section in relation to when I finished painting the entire project.) I would have zero qualms about putting the picture frame back on after an hour of drying time.

Glue with Acrylic Paint is like watching paint drying. It’s a slow process. But if you have worked with Mod Podge you know. Whatever wet glue you choose, you already know that takes several hours to properly dry. Mod Podge takes 24 hours to cure. And all of the drying time is very much determined by how thick you choose to paint. My glue had about an hour to dry.It was still mildly tacky, but I had to put the cover back on so little fingers didn’t damage the work I did.

Final Thoughts

With larger sections, this is a project that I believe even self proclaimed non-crafters can do. The important thing is selecting the paint method that you are most comfortable using. If the word paint intimidates you, but you still enjoy coloring a color page or two, then you will feel right at home with using an Acrylic paint pen set. It literally feels like coloring with markers. If you prefer a quick and done method, grab a brush and your choice of acrylic paint. If you love glue and/or medium manipulation than the mixture of glue and acrylic paint is definitely for you.

Everyone is going to have a different preference or comfort level. You craft with what is comfortable with you and your expectations. This is what truly sets you up for success. Whether you are making a faux stain glass window, the background for another project, or even transforming a vase into something more note worthy for your centerpieces.

If you want to clean up the back side of your glass pane, so that it’s more presentable, here are two options. If you have a steady hand and are good at lining pieces of vinyl up, you can cut out a second set of lines and apply it on the backside. The second option is picking your paint of choice and paint over the colors on the original set of lines. For example, on my project I could use a black sharpie, black acrylic paint with a fine tip brush, or my black acrylic pen to re-establish my black lines.

It’s my hope that you now feel enabled and courageous to try something new.

Paint Is Your Friend

And right now we can all use a little more color in our lives!

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