Being a Garden Sleuth

For the last couple of years it seems like there has been one trial or another when it comes to gardening. And there comes up more and more questions in online communities that sometimes feel repetitive. The one bit of advice I seem to give more times than not is…

Your plants are living and they communicate with you.

Here in the Pacific Northwest we faced another cold spring, even though it wasn’t as cold as last year. As a general rule, we transplant and direct sow seeds around Mother’s Day, mid May.

It wasn’t so long ago that when we planted at this time that our gardens would start of a little slow for a couple weeks and then we’d see some rapid growth.

Last year, local community members thought that their inexperience killed off their crops and it was entirely their fault.

Advertisements

This year community members are talking about what could be the cause for why they’re preventing their plants from growing this year.

In my surrounding area, a good number of everyone’s plants are stuck in the stage of being starts. And more times than not, I keep reading way too many people advise others to just fertilize. And then I see people offer their home remedy fertilizers without understanding what they’re putting in their gardens.

Just because you “fertilize” doesn’t mean that you’re giving the food that you’re plants are craving.

flickr.com

For example, one post I saw this week was asking for help with a cucumber that was still start sized. The picture was not close enough to see if the cucumber was trying to set blossoms or not. Without this kind of information, people were telling to heavily fertilize but with no discrimination.

Banana peel fertilizer is only good, if your plants/vegetables have set blossoms. Plants putting out blossoms love having higher potassium fertilizer. So the home banana fertilizer is good if you’re feeding a plant putting out blossoms.

Coffee grounds are great for plants that love acidic soil. But if you don’t know how acidic (the pH value) your soil is or the pH range that your plant loves, you can burn the roots of your plant.

In the example of this cucumber inquiry, it was a bad idea to recommend coffee grounds, if the cucumber has started putting out blossoms, because composted coffee grounds add nitrogen and cucumber in blossom wants lower nitrogen levels.

Now, coffee grounds could be great advice as long as it is followed with the additional advice to remove the blossoms. Removing the blossoms, with the coffee grounds giving a nitrogen boost, will help the cucumber grow it’s vines and roots. And in this cold season with plants being stunted, it’s not a bad idea to remove early blossoms in order to give the plants more time to grow structurally and be stronger for later in the season when they have to carry the weight of their fruit.

My potatoes didn’t seem to be adversely affected by the hail. They’ve been growing healthy and hearty. (My first stop when looking at my garden to sleuth out what was going wrong in my garden this week.)

Another popular recommendation I read was everyone telling this person to put egg shells down around the cucumber. Now egg shell is the DIY fix for calcium deficiency.

The problem with just crumpling up egg shells and sprinkling it around any plant is that the calcium is fixed inside the shell. If your plant needs calcium now, it’s never going to get into the plant in shell form because the roots of the plant are it’s “mouth”. Putting egg shells on the ground around the plant is like putting a chocolate cake in front of you, but there’s a window between you and the cake. It’s there. You’re there. But you’re not going to eat it because a window is in the way. You either have to get the calcium into a liquid form or compost the egg shells down to release the calcium.

The only benefit of putting egg shells around a plant is to keep pests away like slugs. But the truth is egg shells have not kept slugs out of my garden. And I recognize that my problem is that I don’t have enough egg shells down to create a thick or wide enough barrier to discourage the slugs away.

Instead, I find that the best use of my egg shells is just putting them into my compost along with all my other compostable food waste. By using my egg shells this way, all I have to do is reach for my compost and I know that I have calcium readily absorbable for my cucumber, tomatoes, or whoever needs it at a given moment. And by having the calcium already in my compost, it prevents my plants from being deprived or depleted to begin with because they’re getting it in a steady supply.

My next step was checking out my lettuce and other greens raised bed. There were some split leaves from the hail, but otherwise still doing quite well.

However, before we got our compost running well, there was one other way that I prepared my egg shells to make calcium more available for my plants. I kept clean and dried egg shells. When I needed to make a calcium fix, I crushed the shells into as small of pieces as I could, put them in a pan, and added water. I boiled the egg shells for about an hour (just to maximize the amount of calcium released into the water). Then inset it off to the side and let the water cool down. Once the water came to room temperature, it was ready to pour in my garden. I poured the water and egg shells into my garden. The water had enough calcium in it to meet my plants immediate calcium needs. The shells in the bottom of the pan had some residual calcium left that could further break down in the soil as it finished decomposing.

To sum all this information up, online community groups are great for picking other people’s brains. But more times than not, they may not fully understand why they use a DIY fertilizer, why it works for them, or why it doesn’t work for them. If you’re that person who asked and got a kitchen list full of suggestions and don’t know which one to try first, take a moment and look at what nutrients are being provided by each commenter and see how it fits or doesn’t fit with the natural life cycle of where your plant is at in this exact moment. In addition to that, look at your plant and look at other clues to see if there is anything else that could potentially be going on with your plant.

Advertisements

Are garden pests present?

On the subject of stunted plants, I currently have a summer squash that is stunted. I know for a fact that it’s due to a squash vine borer because of the split vine. No amount of fertilizing is going to get that summer squash to grow.

It’s easy to see when a start is not growing.

Finding the answer takes a little detective work.

The beans had a few leaves that didn’t make it. But they’re still primed to grow with some warm days on the way.

What have been your environmental conditions?

Each plant that grows from a seed relies on its DNA to tell it when move on to the next stage of its life cycle.

We can start our seeds inside a greenhouse or our home to get a jump start on the growing season. But no matter how early you start a seed, the start will stop its physical growth until a little DNA switch gets flipped by the weather. Whether it’s the amount of sunlight, day time temperatures, or night time temperatures… there are environmental indicators that plants look for before they say, “Now is the perfect time to grow.”

As I mentioned above, this spring has been uncharacteristically cold.

For my tomatoes has been fun to watch this year. I planted some from a seed company. And I planted others from seeds that were harvested from tomato plants that were local and went through last year’s cold spring (which was much worse than this year). The tomatoes that have the seed memory of a cold spring have grown much better than the plants that grew with a seed memory of another region.

Can fertilizing compensate for this growth discrepancy?

Yes. However, if your seeds don’t have the DNA memory of what it’s like to grow in a cold spring, they’re going to struggle a little until they figure out what’s going on with the weather.

My pepper plants have some damage from the hail. However I have a theory that these starts faired better because last week they got planted with some rich compost on their roots. They had the nutrients to fortify them against the elemental attack.

This is the prime reason why it’s important to either save seeds from the plants that you grow or purchase starts from people in your community who grow from their own seeds. From their seed memory, they are ready and geared to thrive and flourish with micro-regional weather. (I share the same grow zone as some southern states, however our springs and micro-regional weather patterns are going to be quite different.)

But it’s also not just seasonal weather that affects the health of your plants.

This past week we had a hail storm. It’s been several years since we’ve had hail in my community. And these weren’t cute tiny hail stones. These were enough to hurt if we stood out in the storm.

After the storm I went out to check on my garden. And it looked like they were all going to be resilient and bounce back just fine. Especially seeing how we were expecting a couple of nice warm days.

The problem is that once the sun did come back out, I noticed that something was wrong with the plants. I first noticed it with my tomatoes. And I thought it was a tomato issue. But I looked elsewhere and saw other plants were affected also.

My tomatoes were hardest hit. But they don’t like the cold to start start with. This little stunted start was the hardest hit. The larger plants have the same beige pick marked damage that just looks like it was assaulted from the hail. But at the same time meets some of the descriptive marks of mosaic virus.

This was an important clue to take note of.

My husband sent some pictures over to a friend who has more experience under her belt than we do. With the little information that my husband provided, her opinion was a mosaic virus.

Before her recommendation I was leaning toward an iron deficiency or damage from the hail storm, leaning toward the hail damage because we went from perfectly healthy and happy plants to having visual distress in a couple days.

Whether damage, iron deficiency, or a virus; all three have different care
steps.

This is where you need to be a detective and look for clues.

Here is my amaranth, which pretty much look identical in leaf damage as my tomatoes do. From all I read, so far it doesn’t look like amaranth isn’t effected by the mosaic virus. Which means these guys were just beat up by the hail. So this is one example of why I’m leaning toward my tomatoes just being damaged by hail.

We were concerned for mosaic virus, but after reading up on it we noticed that other plants, not listed on list of plants commonly infected with this virus, were showing the same distress.

The biggest clue for us is that my second garden, miles away, also all had healthy plants and two days after the hail storm showed the same markings.

We cannot completely discredit a viral infection in our garden without testing it. But we can continue to watch the plants and operate as if we are dealing with this virus (trimming effected leaves off in increments so not to handicap the plants’ photosynthesis, not composting the trimmings and expired plants, cleaning garden tools thoroughly, keeping other plants from growing in their direction, and next year planting the tomatoes (and other effected plants) in a totally different section of the garden).

While I’m fairly certain that I’m dealing with hail damage, prudence says that I also act with caution against the mosaic virus. There is nothing to say that I’m not seeing two issues at once.

My Echinacea took the most beating here. And this damage to the stalk looks exactly like the damage on my tomato leaves. As this is stem damage (the leaves were fine) and they match the leaf damage on the tomatoes, this becomes my lead points of evaluation for my garden in this moment.

I know that not everyone is going through what my garden is going through in this season. These are just examples of how to analyze your garden and the conditions that you are facing this year or in a growing season to come. Sometimes answering your garden woes are as simple as looking up a description phrase in Google and looking at the images to confirm or eliminate potential problems. Sometimes you need to crowd source and pick other gardener and farmer’s brains. Just remember that when you crowd source, people respond with their experience and thinking of what’s going on in their garden at the moment. They don’t know all the additional details, like you just had a hail storm or your neighbor sprayed their property with a chemical that negatively impacts your garden because it carries on the wind. People don’t know if you had contaminated water and your water service provider mails out a letter stating such information two weeks after the fact. Unless you look for pests, you may not be aware that the problem you’re facing is coming from a vine borer, aphids, locusts (or other insect) that has come to your property and hasn’t been there in past years. Or maybe you just bought a new house and the previous owner had diseased crops that they let compost in the ground and that information wasn’t passed on to you in the bill of sale. Or maybe you picked up a load of manure for your garden, but it wasn’t disclosed to you that the animals are hay that was sprayed with Grazon.

I just want to make a special note to give a heads up on this issue of Grazon (a Dupont product) and how it’s silently affecting crops, ground and water health. Here is the video from a farmer who lost whole sections of garden plots. We first watched this video and became aware of this issue. You can source the right materials, but sometimes you have to go further back on the food chain to see where the problem lies. I thought organic manure was the end all bench mark. Now it looks like we have to look further. Here is a very detailed article from 2017 to further jump start your research. This one will open your eyes on the product Grazon. Not just this product, but actually all herbicides. Even if you choose not to use herbicides on your property, you might be buying product from someone who does use it on their property.

There are so many things that can affect the health of your garden and plants. Just be aware that the solution may not be as simple as “just fertilize it”. Sometimes you may need to be your garden’s own detective and look for clues to set you on the right path to bring health and recovery to your garden.

What hidden little gems have you learned from your garden?


Make A Container You Will Love

More and more people are moving to containers for growing their home gardens. So what do you do when you get sticker shock over the container prices online or in the box stores?

You build one!

Everyone talks about pallet projects. But I want to introduce you to crate raised beds.

My husband works for a company that builds machinery. The crates that are used there are tossed. Being resourceful and having access to free crates to reuse and repurpose, this is the way I build the majority of my container garden. This also has the added bonus of solving my time problem. I have so much on my plate, that building raised beds from scratch isn’t an option.

AND if you know how to use a pair of scissors and a staple gun, you can absolutely make this garden container!

There are so many different crates out there. The ones that I have and use as raised bed were formerly forklift crates. (They originally housed large machinery parts.)

With the crates you source, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

  • If there is plywood (whether the floor or sides), you will need to remove it and replace with wood that hasn’t been chemically treated.
  • The crate floor should be solid. This will help contain your soil.
  • The sides are okay if they have gaps. We’ll line this and the soil will stay in.
  • Is this going to be a permanent or temporary container for your garden?
Advertisements

This last question is very important. It will determine if you need to source other materials for your container. You may find that you need screws, power drill, or even other parts if you plan on turning into a cold frame or want to add features like hoops.

The containers that are brought home to me are made out of pine. The boards are stapled together.

The containers that are brought home to me are made out of pine. The boards are stapled together. I know that these crates were not built to last forever. They’re not even sealed for weather. But being limited in time for my garden builds, I opt for leaving my crates as is.

Tip: you can weather protect wood by scorching it with a torch.

If you find that your crate is stapled together, this feature is going to limit how many seasons you will get out of your container.

For example, the boards of my 36″ x 36″ potato crate (above) started to pull away at the start of the third year. The wood is weathered but still as strong as the day the crate came home. This is one crate that I wished I would have reinforced with screws before filling. This crate got place before filling with dirt. And with the exception of this front face, there’s no easy way of coming back in to push the board back in place and screw in. It’s tightly spaced with other structures.

Tip: My hindsight advice is to increase the longevity of your crate container, reinforce the boards with screws, right from the beginning. This will prevent awkward maintenance in a few years.

Let me walk you through how I make my raised beds from crates

I’m using the smallest of my new crates 12″ x 32″ and about 18″ deep. (This one has been sitting for a couple months waiting for me to decide what I wanted to plant in it this season. I was gifted some pepper starts and knew exactly where they were going to go.)

Items you will need:

  • Wood Crate
  • Garden Weed Barrier
  • Scissors
  • Staple Gun

The first thing I do is fold over the edge of the garden barrier, to make a smooth finished edge, and staple it down across one edge of the crate. It’s not necessary to make a finished edge. I just like this step because sometimes the cut on my roll of barrier is slanted. So by making a new straight edge, this makes it easier to lay the barrier without worrying about it running sideways across the crate.

Note: When I line a crate larger than the width of my garden barrier, I line one side of the crate. Once that first piece is secure, I run a second piece for the opposite side of the crate. The overlapping of the barrier happens in the middle of the crate. There is no need to secure in the center floor of the crate because the weight of the soil will keep the barrier in place.

With this first edge of the crate secure, I drape the garden barrier across the top to make sure I’m laying it in centered and straight. Then I push the barrier down into the crate and make sure that the barrier has enough give to accommodate the full size of the bottom of the crate.

As you can see in the second picture, I trim my garden barrier a little longer than I need to fit inside the crate. One reason is that I usually don’t cut a straight line (obviously seen here). But more importantly, I learned over the last two years that you want more barrier inside the crate than you will think.

The crates I lined the first year, fitting the liner tightly to the inside. The following spring I noticed that these barriers started ripping out at the staples after the first winter of water and freezing. The barrier needed some flex that I did not allow for. So now I give some allowance.

Before I put my garden barrier away (and focus on securing the lining), I cut the width of the short side of the crate. Then I fold this strip of barrier in half and cut. Each half will line the sides of the crate. These side pieces I set aside (or stuffed in my pocket for this crate because of the wind). I set the roll of barrier to a side and go back to folding over the edge of this second crate long side, and staple it down in place.

Once the long sides of the crate are secure, I secure the edges along the short side to hold them in place before securing barrier down the short sides. This keeps them up and out of the way. And if you’re lining a crate while it’s windy out, you will thank me for having the barrier stay in one place so you can move through this project in the least amount of time.

First I take the overlap, from the edge of the crate, and fold this corner down before stapling. This gives a reinforced edge as well and bringing the excess barrier down inside the crate. This doesn’t look pretty, but this is all about telling the barrier where you want it to go and keeping it contained.

Can this excess be trimmed off?

Of course it can. But you will see in just one moment, by keeping the excess length and tacking it up the side, you are creating a barrier that will keep all your soil in your raised bed without having a completely sealed liner. I use the weight of my soil to work for me so I have less steps to take.

For the next step, I pull out one of my side crate pieces of barrier that I just cut and line my first short side. I fold the edge of the barrier down, just like I did with the long side of the crate, and stapled down this top edge and pushed the rest of the length of this side down over the rough edges that were tacked down from the longer side. This flap is great because not only does it cover the edges of where dirt could go down and over time wash out of the bottom of the crate, but it also redirects any of this soil movement back toward the center of the crate.

So if you have the choice of having a generous flap (like seen here in picture two) or trimming it down, make an educated decision in favor of what’s going to help you maintain your soil. After all one of the problems with container growing of any kind is the loss of soil, mostly through drainage at the bottom of your container.

Once you secure the second short side of the crate, you will see here in picture 3 that you have a fully lined crate.

The first time I lined a crate, with no one telling me how to do it, I must have taken an hour to do this. Even with taking pictures, this only took me about 15 minutes. The larger crates don’t take any additional steps. So it really is time efficient to take a fully made wood crate and line it to make your own raised bed.

If you did not line your crate where you want it’s forever home to be, make sure that you move it now. Even with this smaller crate, the weight of it filled is more than I can move on its own. Even with a hand cart, I still wouldn’t want to move it because I could just see myself knocking it over and spilling all my soil all across my yard. For my sanity (and your own), I just make sure I place my crate raised beds before I fill them.

Advertisements

How I fill my raised beds

I’ll start by saying that I don’t fill my raised beds like everyone else.

One reason is that I don’t have the gardening budget to buy as much soil as I would need to fill all my crates, especially the large ones.

Another reason is that I’ve talked with many people about different types of gardening are available for each of us to choose from.

The drawback to container growing (even raised beds) is that there comes a time where there will be a depletion of nutrients in soil. So even though I do top off my crates with raised bed potting soil, I choose to think long term with my raised beds.

Hugelkultur and Mound gardening have beautiful foresight in them. Both of these forms of gardening is that they put long term “food” into their structure building. Both contain wood (usually in the form of branches and limbs of trees, logs in larger structures) which is slow release nutrients that takes many years to decompose and incorporate nutrients back into the soil. If fact, this is the best way of getting the micronutrients into the soil that standard commercial fertilizers do not ever put back into your containers.

For this reason, I went back to my yard waste and compost. I grabbed some pine branches that we recently trimmed off of our trees, and a couple of handfuls of grass clippings. Especially with the large crates, these fillers are going to be amazing.

In the bottom of my crates I put the largest branches. Normally I put in camp fire sized pieces of wood in the bottom. This small crate doesn’t have depth for that. So I started off with what I consider my second layer, thin branches. Ever green boughs are perfect, not just because of the thicker needles (which take longer to break down than leaf waste) but also because they take up space.

Next I put down green grass clippings. One, they take up space and leave nice medium for plants to spread out their roots. Two, the grass fills in the branch gaps and holes perfectly.

Think of that science experiment where you’ve seen rocks added into a jar first. Then it’s followed by pebbles, then sand, and then water. It’s a perfect example of maximizing the fill of a contained space with an incondensable material like rock.

I pack my raised beds with as much long term nutrients as I can. And this method of packing with larger material first, working your way down to the smallest, is the best way of packing your container box.

From here, I went back and grabbed a couple of pitchforks worth of raw compost (complete with some of my worm residents) and the last of my current supply of raised bed potting mix.

Of course it was the moment that my kiddos saw me grab the compost that they came rushing at me. My youngest dove in and tried to rescue the worms from being placed in this crate. He was acting like I was kicking them to the curb and evicting them. It took me a moment to tell him that he didn’t need to take them back to the in ground garden, I need them here.

And that’s one thing that I haven’t heard anyone talk about. We all know that worms are great for our garden. In fact we don’t give them a second thought in our in ground garden. So why aren’t we talking about them in our container gardening?

Worms are very much needed for a good growing biome. They help break down materials. And since I put in some large materials, I could let them do their own thing, or I can see if I have some worms who want to take advantage of this new home. (And this is another reason why I don’t fully seal off my lining in the crates. The worms are free to come and go as they move their way through any loose openings that take place over time. (And these openings do happen, but they’re more controlled.)

Anyway, I chased my youngest down and got my worms back in my compost. Then I quickly dumped the potting soil down on top to keep him from digging them back out. (I swear that child loves worms!)

I finish off with the raised bed potting soil because that is ready to go and host my pepper starts.

The down side to this layered nutrients in a raised bed

You may want to choose to do straight soil. Especially if you’re planting starts that will shortly need to have structures to assist in their growth. Just like these peppers will need some structure.

This layering, especially in this smaller size of crate, makes it impossible to add bamboo stakes for my peppers. They were just falling over. Fortunately, I have some carbon fiber cold frame hoops. I haven’t added them yet to this crate, but I’ll put in a hoop over each row to drop lines for the peppers to grow up.

I mention all of this, because if you choose to layer and expect it to hold up a stake or tomato cage, this first year just doesn’t give it the soil density to hold up a structure. So be prepared to come up with an alternate plan.

Another disadvantage to this layering is that as you can see in these pictures, I filled my crate up to the top. Over the course of this growing season, and especially over winter (when the rain helps to draw all the smaller soil material to settle into the branches in the bottom, I will see that this crate will only be half full next spring.

In the spring, I’ll add more compost and soil into this crate. At this point I can add mulch on top and the volume of the crate will not go down any further.

Again, this isn’t a horrible down side. It’s just one to be aware of and plan for. But this crate is now set up for many years of container growing. It will be sustainably nutrient rich, especially when I add the mulch and keep that going every season.


How do you like to container grow?


Here are a couple items I find useful in my garden.

This post contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commissions on products purchased through these links, but at no extra cost to you. These items listed here are from Amazon but may be purchased at local markets.

One response to “Make A Container You Will Love”

  1. Clove One Clove All – How I Can Do That Avatar

    […] Make a Container You Will Love is how I start off all my new boxes. This time I reused one of my existing boxes. My onions didn’t do so well in it this past grow season, so I’m changing it up to see how my garlic will do here. […]

    Like

Leave a comment

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.
Advertisements
Advertisements

Make Your Own Bullion

With the growing list of food ingredients that people become sensitive to, it’s easy for families to kind of go numb reading ingredient lists. Not only is it difficult to read the chemical name of some of the ingredients (let alone answer the questions, “Why is this in here?”), but some families are now asking, “What isn’t listed?”

For example, natural flavoring is listed as a single ingredient but can actually incorporate up to 200 different ingredients. It’s a shady practice, because it could be something as simple as a proprietary blend of herbs. Although it’s more likely the summation of chemicals used for extractions of certain elements for flavoring. But how is a family to know what chemicals or processes were used and make the educated decision if this is something that is harming the health of a loved one?

So whether you’re looking to cut some corners in your grocery budget, trying to eliminate ingredients in your diet, or simply wanting to eat more simply (knowing exactly what you’re cooking with, able to say the ingredients, and other reasons) you can make basic kitchen ingredients from scratch. Bullion is one of those ingredients that you can make in advance and have it in your pantry waiting for you to use!

Advertisements

First Make Your Stock

I’m going to move forward here with making chicken stock and turning it into chicken bouillon. However you can do this by making your own beef stock or vegetable stock. (And I just want to say that when you make your own vegetable stock, it actually has more flavor and tastes a thousand times better than what you will buy in your local grocery store!)

There are also a few different ways that you can cook your stock. You can make stock on stovetop, in a slow cooker in your oven, in a crock pot, or a pressure cooker. The only difference is going to be the amount of time you commit to. With the exception of the pressure cooker, you will want to cook low and slow to release all the nutritional benefits of your ingredients. A lot of influencers, bloggers and You Tubers will encourage you to make a stock in a short amount of time. Of course it is possible, but I want to encourage you to take the time and cook your stock ingredients out.

If you’re making a bone broth, cook it so that you extract the marrow from the bones. If you’re cooking vegetables, don’t assume that because you’re not extracting marrow that you can get by with less time. Check out my post A Touch Bitter? where I specifically talk about vegetable stock.

You know that you have a good and flavorful stock when it has rich and dark colors. The color comes from all the nutrients that you cook out from your original ingredients.

Advertisements

My Chicken Stock

I’m going to be honest with you here, daddy taught me how to cook by following a recipe. But I inherited a wild cooking hair from mom, where we improvise. I cook by smell, then by flavor, all over what a recipe says. I’m working hard to make notes on my recipes to find a strong base that is pretty average for how my recipes go. Just know that when I have chicken bones to use, I literally use the ingredients that I have on hand. And just like your kitchen, there are ingredients that I run out of. I don’t go to the store for missing ingredients. I run with what I have.

Here’s what I have standard in my kitchen:

  • onion skins (kept in a vegetable food scrap bag in the freezer)
  • garlic skins (vegetable food scrap bag)
  • stems of herbs that dehydrate to make my own dried herbs (vegetable food scrap bag)
  • dehydrated herbs from my garden (oregano, basil, lemon balm, sage, parsley, chives and others)
  • dehydrated herbs that I have yet to successfully produce in my garden (ginger, tumeric and others)

General Recipe

In my 8 quart instant pot I add:

  • the bones of one whole chicken fryer
  • if the chicken came with gizzards, I cook the gizzards here in my stock.
  • the vegetable food scraps from my freezer (ideally I aim for the skins of about 4 onions, the skins of 2-4 garlic heads, half a bunch of leafy herbs)
  • herbs from my seasoning shelves (including salt and pepper)
  • filtered water that fills my pot up to it’s Max line.

The herbs are generally where I run out of supply and have to improvise. If I have everything the herbs that I like to add are:

  • Ginger
  • Bay leaves
  • Lemon balm (fresh will give you more of a lemon flavor, dehydrated will have more of a green tea lemon flavor, use according to which type you’re using. I like going heavier on the fresh lemon balm)
  • Rosemary
  • Oregano

These herbs I go heavy on. If I’m out of any of these, I improvise using other herbs. Sage I use sparingly because it’s such a potent herb. Cilantro I use sparingly because I have family members who dislike the flavor of this herb. So I keep this one low in quantity to still get the nutritional value, but the flavor is not prominent at all. Fresh cracked pepper I use in varying levels depending on what my stock is currently at. Salt, I try to remember to add, but half the time I forget. Because the flavor of salt is not extracted, like herbs, I have no problem seasoning with salt once my pressure cooking is done.

I set my instant pot to pressure cooking, on high, for 3 hours. (No matter which stock type I’m making, I don’t ever go less than 3 hours.) This is what gives you full extraction.

Making Bullion

Once your broth has finished processing, you strain out all the ingredients. With a vegetable stock, I go ahead and compost the vegetable bits that I strain out. With bone stock I strain out all the bones and vegetables and they are thrown out.

If you’re making vegetable bullion, you can cool your stock down to room temperature and then move forward with the next step. If you make a bone broth (chick, beef, venison, goat, sheep, etc.) you will need to cool your broth off over night in your refrigerator. The exception is if you have a fat skimmer that can separate the fat out from hot broth. I do not. So I refrigerate my stock over night.

Once the fat layer has formed on your chilled broth, you skim the fat off of the broth.

You have to skim off of the fat, because when you make bullion you want to have a long shelf life. Fat is the limiting factor in shelf stable food. It will go rancid before anything else goes bad. So by removing the fat, you ensure that you have a long shelf life for your bullion.

When my chicken broth is been skimmed from fat, I grab my jelly roll trays for my dehydrator and set my dehydrator up where it’s going to process the broth. The reason why I set my dehydrator up in location and fill the jelly roll trays on the stacked racks is because the broth is going to run to lowest point. There is not going to be an even layer of broth. So I fill in place and pour the stock until I reach the lip at one point on my tray. This will maximize the amount of broth I can process at a single time.

Dehydrating liquid hack: before placing your liquid on the jelly roll trays put it in a sauce pan and reduce the stock. By evaporating the liquid down, you will cut down on your dehydrating time and save space in your dehydrator.

I run my dehydration temperature at 140-145°F until the broth is crispy like this. Dehydration time is going to vary depending on if you reduced your broth first, the temperature you dehydrate out, and most importantly the thickness of where your broth pools. The thicker sections will be gummy to touch until it’s properly dehydrated. The thinner bits you can leave as is. Or when you check on your progress, you can used a silicone spatula to push the thinner bits in closer to the thicker bits (this makes it easier to remove the thinner sections when you’re finished dehydrating).

In the center of my jelly roll try, you’ll see that I put my coffee/herb grinder in the center. It makes it easy to brush the chunks and bullion dust into the grinder. When the container reaches its limit I remove the tray, cap the grinder and run it for about 10 seconds. Just long enough for the broth to turn into a powder. The bullion powder I put directly into my mason jar that I’m going to store it in.

Just so you won’t be alarmed, what you see in this 1/2 pint size jar is what my 8 quart size instant pot produces. My first time making my own bullion, I was disappointed that it didn’t make more. But that disappointment disappeared when I tasted the bullion. You will not be disappointed with the intense flavor!

This is perfectly save to keep in your pantry or in your spice cupboard.

Personally I have a tiny kitchen, so I keep my bullion on the top shelf of my fridge. The bullion usually doesn’t last my family a year. Although there was a time where I needed to free up some jars and use my canned chicken stock, so I had one batch of bullion powder in my fridge for about 2 years. It was still fresh and flavorful when I went back to finish this bullion off.

Comment below and tell me how you like this space saving flavorful bullion.

How does it compare to what you’ve previous bought from the store?


This post contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commissions on products purchased through these links, but at no extra cost to you. These items listed here are from Amazon but may be purchased at local markets.

If you don’t have a current dehydrator and are looking for one, I have been very pleased with this dehydrator. This was an upgrade from my very first dehydrator, but still on a budget. If you’re in a tight financial place, with today’s economy, this is the one that I highly recommend. Not only was it a great price, but it also included jelly roll trays for each rack (something that can’t be said with other budget units)

Herb Grinder Elictric has been great for keeping all the ground herbs/boullion contained in the grinding bowl.

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.

Leave a comment

Advertisements
Advertisements
Advertisements
Advertisements

End of Season Green

I considered waiting to share this post until the fall, but then I thought why not now. This is the perfect idea to share now while you’re still deciding what you are putting into the ground or containers for this growing season.

If you have some tomatoes planted and wondering if you should plant more, the answer is a resounding yes!

I’ve mentioned before that last year, the growing season here in the Pacific Northwest was horrible. Nothing really took off until the end of June and the beginning of July. And I was concerned with my tomatoes. If fact, the above picture was the last of the tomatoes that I took off the vine at the beginning of October!

As you can see, there were so many green tomatoes that I still had, but my plants were dying off. So instead of all these beauties, I brought them inside and found a recipe that has now entered my MUST make every year when I bring the tomatoes in.

But I wanted to share this recipe with you now, because this is worth planting the extra tomato plants that you’re debating about adding to your garden.

If you’re like our families, you grow enough tomatoes to make your tomato sauce, pizza sauce, tomato soup, salsa or other tomato product you store for the winter. (This year I’m going to add making our out ketchup and tomato paste.) You definitely want to add Green Tomato Relish to your list!

I tried this last year not just because I had a plethora of green tomatoes, but also because my husband loves relish and I hate pickles. So I gave this a test drive to see if I could make something that is on his list of condiments and yet is something that I will eat as well. And I tell you that this hit the spot for everyone!

Advertisements

OurHalfAcreHomestead Green Tomato Relish

Mrs. Volfie posted her Green Tomato Relish here, but for your convenience I’m leaving the directions she walks through below. Please note, that if for your first time you don’t have the celery seed in your cupboard you are still going to have an amazing relish without it. I now have celery seed in my kitchen so I can’t wait to see how much better it turns out.

This is the vegetable ratio that Mrs. Volfie talks about in her recipe. You can mutiply it according to how many green tomatoes that you have.

  • 2 C Green Tomatoes, minced
  • 2 C Onions, minced
  • 1 C Sweet Peppers, minced

The Base for this recipe is 5 Cups of produce.

As you can see here, I used red onions instead of the yellow onions that Mrs. Volfie used. They are just my personal favorite onion, but please feel free to use the onions that you have on hand. I also want to mention that I was about a half cup short of the minced peppers and I still instantly fell in love with this recipe. Just remember that if you’re light in one vegetable, you should try to make up for it with one of the other vegetables.

I didn’t and I ended up with a slightly wetter finished product than I would have liked. But that is okay. Having run this recipe and knowing what the outcome is and what my personal expectations were, I know that this next batch that I make, I’ll make sure to keep that 5 Cups Base ratio and I’ll go a little lighter on the liquid, but I’m ahead of myself.

Let’s move forward.

This is a 2 day project. On first day, you’re going to mince your vegetables and let it sit over night. The next day you’re going to cook and bottle or jar your relish. And as a busy mom, I sure do love recipes that I can break up into steps like this and not have to take an entire day to run a canner.

Advertisements

Day One

  1. Mince your vegetables to make up your Base Unit. (In the video Mrs. Volfie made a triple batch, which is a total of 15 Cups of produce.) I didn’t have the chopping tool that Mrs. Volfie used, so I minced by hand.
  2. Combine your vegetables and add 2 Tbsp of Pickling Salt. If you are running less or more of a Base Batch, you may need to adjust the amount of salt used accordingly. (The purpose of the salt is to soften the vegetables but also reduce some of the water content.)
  3. Put the raw relish in your refrigerator overnight.

Day Two

  1. Strain and rinse off your relish.
  2. Put back into the pot and add the following. (This is for a triple batch, so please adjust these ingredients according to the Base Batch of recipe that you’re running.)
    • 2 C Sugar (Mrs. Volfie mentions that she prefers brown sugar. I just used cane so can’t comment on the difference in flavors.)
    • 2 C Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
    • 2 tsp. Salt
    • 1 tsp. Celery Seed
    • Fresh Cracked Black Pepper
  3. Bring to a boil on your stovetop.
  4. Fill hot jars or bottles with the relish with 1″ headspace and de-bubble.
  5. Hot Water Bath the relish for 15-20 minutes.

For Christmas, my husband and I gifted this relish to friends and loved ones. And everyone came back raving about it. Not only that, but have talked with their loved ones who are also interested in this relish.

You won’t hear this in the video, but I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you that this relish makes the BEST tartar sauce just by mixing in your favorite mayonnaise. Everyone I’ve told that to in person just gave me the humored head nod that said, “so you say. I might give it a try.” Everyone did try and they came back with fireworks in their eyes.

Living in the Pacific Northwest, we are spoiled with fresh seafood. So of course when anyone talks about tartar sauce, people get a little snobby. But please, please, please, give this a try. Because I have yet to have someone come back to me and tell me that it did not hit the spot.

And if you are planning a special event, are a caterer, and seafood is on the menu I am telling you that this one condiment is the way to wow your customers and come back with glowing revues!

Advertisements

Other recipes that may interest you…

I have not yet tried these recipes, but these are on the top of my to try list.

Ketchup

The ingredients on this recipe from Self Sufficient Me sounds about right for what I look for in a ketchup. The written recipe is found here.

There is one glaring issue that I have with this recipe by watching the video is that it is too thin and liquid based for the type of ketchup my family likes. The culprit for this being so runny is that he runs his tomatoes through a food processor at the very beginning.

I was teaching a small class on how to make tomato sauce and we found out the hard way that when you process tomatoes like this you just can’t ever get that sauce to thicken up! The reason for this is because there is a chemical in the skin of tomatoes that when you release (by blitzing the tomatoes) it counteracts the pectin that is naturally in the tomatoes. You end up with tomato juice.

So to prevent the thinning of your tomato product, you really do not want to cut the tomato more than you have to. Small tomatoes cut in half. Large tomatoes cut into quarters. The pectin inside the tomatoes will thicken your sauce and minimize your time in front of a hot stove.

Advertisements

Tomato Paste

While I do have a few Italian Nona’s that I love watching on YouTube for inspiration, I want to try this Turkish recipe for making a tomato paste. With Turkish Food Travel, you can watch her video here or written recipe here.

A quick walking away point from this is that you notice that the pectin inside the tomatoes are at work in making this a thick sauce to start with. Then you keep the pan on the heat much longer than you would for a chunky tomato/pasta sauce. So if you’re making your own pasta sauce already, to make a paste you keep cooking the sauce down until you cook the vast majority of the liquid out.

I like how this recipe uses salt to reduce the tomato liquid even before you start cooking. This has inspired me to prep the tomatoes the night before I want to cook the paste, so the salt can maximize its extraction time.

At the end of the video you will hear about the method of making tomato paste by cooking it in the sun. Even though there was not enough description here, it sounds very similar to what I’ve heard is done in Italy. There are wooden tables that are used to make the paste. From what I understand, the sauce is first made and then spread across the wooden table. The sun dehydrates the tomatoes for you to make the paste. The only thing you do during this process is to use a scraper or a bench knife and mix the sauce/paste so that everything dehydrates/dries in the sun at an even rate.

If you are Italian, Turkish, or any nationality that makes a tomato paste using the sun, please comment below on the process that you use. Because I want to know how you do it. Making tomato paste by sun is on my cooking bucket list (I want to try this at least one time during my life).

Advertisements

Too Busy? Here’s some quick condiments that can fit in your busy life.

I just came across Becoming A Farm Girl and I’m excited to see what she has in store to share with the world. Here is her video on 7 Quick Condements. I love listening to Cassandra. Her approach for making mayonnaise is the easiest method that I’ve seen to date. And she’s made me super excited to make this the next time I run out of mayo. We’ve been meaning to make our own because of a couple of ingredients that have made their way onto the ingredient labels of commercial mayo.

To get her print out recipes you will need to sign up to Cassandra’s email list. The link to that is in the details of the video linked above. I did sign up to get this recipe book and it is beyond what I’ve received from others. So, if you’re picky about who you sign up for, I absolutely did not regret signing up for this one.

Looking for a tool to make your food prep easier?

This is an affiliate link to mentioned product. We may receive a commission on this product, purchased through this link, but at no extra cost to you. This item is from Amazon but may be purchased at local markets.

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.

Leave a comment

Advertisements
Advertisements

BFF Bacon Friends Forever

A few years ago, my oldest came home from school saying that he and one of his friends were BFFs. I asked him if he knew what that meant. He said, “Yes, mom, Bacon Friends Forever!”

I tried so hard not to laugh. He was serious. And it got me thinking about how no matter the culture people have always bonded together over food.

Today I want to talk about curing meat. If you are a non-pork eater (whether for religious or personal reasons) please stay with me here, because the curing of bacon is the same process as curing other meats. For example, Pastrami is made with beef using the same method (even with a different seasoning recipe). And you can even make Bacon using Beef as a substitute (there’s a recipe for this at the very end of the post).

The process of curing meat use to be common knowledge for all families before refrigerators were invented. In fact there are still many cultures around the world that still cure meat in their traditional ways. If you are interested in learning other methods 2 Guys & A Cooler is one channel that I follow. And what surprises me is just how similar all these other meat preserving methods are to making bacon.

Curing meats, in short, is the process of removing water from meat to make it shelf stable without refrigeration. This is done by using high amounts of salt.

The reason why salt works in preserving meat is because salt draws water out of the meat and creates a saline environment that makes the meat inhospitable to the growth of colonies of bacteria and mold.

Specific salamis are cured for a specific flavor brought from the controlled growth of certain mold. So, in this instance salt is the controlling agent to that mold growth.

I mention this before starting to show you how easy it is to cure meat because there are certain diets where it can be tempting to alter meat curing recipes. You need to keep the high salt content on order to not grow bacteria or mold on your meat, and making it dangerous to eat. There are methods to alter the saltiness of the meat later on in the curing process. So give me a moment, and I will come full circle back to salt levels.

Advertisements

Let’s Make Bacon!

There’s many bacon recipes found all over the internet. My husband and I have tried at least half a dozen. And that doesn’t include the experiments we made in trying to make our own. None of them compare to the recipe made by Jess Pryles, which is our go to recipe. The easiest way of describing it is to think of your favorite grocery store brand and multiplying your love for it a hundred times. Or think of the best bacon you had in a restaurant, and this bacon turns out better than even the finest restaurant. That’s how much we love this recipe. So this is the one I’m going to share with you because it’s not too sweet, not too spicy, smokes without burning or sticking to your smoker/grill, and the level of saltiness is easy to manage for your preference–both at the beginning of the curing process and at the end.

The Recipe

Bacon From Jess Pryles

  • 3 lb Skinless, Boneless Pork Belly
  • 3 Tbsp Kosher salt
  • 1/3 C White Sugar
  • 2 Tbsp Pepper
  • 2 tsp Paprika
  • 1 tsp Pink Curing Salt (Prague Powder #1)

This recipe can be multiplied in direct relation to the weight of the pork belly you are working with. See “Managing Saltiness” to see how you want to treat this ingredient as well as the pink curing salt.

Managing Saltiness

Before I move on to the process I want to briefly walk you through your first option of managing the saltiness of your bacon–or any cured meat for that matter. You have two options of salt to use: fine grain salt or rock salt.

Fine grain salt is your table salt, kosher salt, or any other salt that has been milled down to a fine powder. Because of how small the salt has been broken down into, the salt easily penetrates deep into the muscle tissue of the meat. This will give you a punch in the face saltiness level that you can further modify at the end of the curing process.

Rock salt is the crystal salt that you usually see in the store for sea salt or Himalayan salt. There’s a couple of other salt options out there that uses the crystals or rocks to put in your own spice grinder or mill. Because the rocks are obviously larger than the salt grains, it takes it longer for the saltiness to enter into the meat tissue. This process speeds up as the water is extracted from the meat and “melts” the salt crystal/rock. If you prefer cooking on the less salt is more spectrum if cooking, this is the salt you want to use. (I’m in this spectrum, so I always use this salt for curing meat.)

One more thing I want to address, before moving on to the process, is the pink salt ingredient. If you are nitrite or nitrate sensitive, you definitely want to leave out this ingredient. Pink curing salt is included in many recipes because it is preserving agent. Depending on how quickly you move (or don’t move) through a pork belly depends on if this is a necessary ingredient for you.

Without the pink curing salt, your bacon can be kept in your fridge for a couple weeks before spoiling. So if you go through a lot of bacon, that the pink curing salt really isn’t necessary. But if it will take you months to eat through pounds (however big your pork belly is) you will need to think of an alternative long term storage option, such as bagging up the bacon in your family’s serving sizes and storing in the freezer.

As a comparison note, we cured whole bellies with the pink curing salt, and life happened. We were unable to cook with the bacon like we thought we would and it took us almost three months to finish that batch. It’s instances like this where families might choose to use a pink curing salt. But making bacon has happened long before the manufacture and sales of pink curing salt.

Advertisements

Curing Container

There are a couple of different options you can go with when it comes to what you will contain your bacon in while curing. You can choose to use zip lock bags, closed container, or open container.

The open container is easy because everyone has one. There are a handful of drawbacks though. First, you keep the curing bacon in your fridge, so an open container leaves your meat vulnerable to flavor exchange with other foods. The bacon is also vulnerable to other contaminates, such as someone sneezing while looking in the fridge. And the water extracted from the meat gums up in the bottom of the container through the curing process.

A closed container is by far better in regards that it prevents all the draw backs of the open container. Plus, if you are a family that eliminates or minimizes the amounts of plastics in your house, this fits in your lifestyle. But the drawback for the average home kitchen, is that you might not have a large enough reusable container for your meat to lie flat. I do have a Pyrex casserole dish (which has a lid) that’s the perfect size for a 5lb pork belly. However it comes out of meal cooking circulation for a week.

Both of these options are great for their own reasons. However it’s important to note that these two containing methods will require that you handle the curing meat by hand or other kitchen utensil such as thongs. So if you have any food handling aversions, this might be your determining factor.

The other option is using plastic zip lock bags. You will have to cut the meat down to fit in a one gallon size bag. Or you can leave it whole if you have 2.5 gallon bags. This option gives you an automatic barrier for when it’s time to flip the meat and contain all the extracted water. It is also the most space saving method in the fridge, if space is the limiting factor. The drawback to this option is the dreaded bag failure. If the seal is not secure, you will have the extracted water leaking in your fridge.

If you are using a 3 lb pork belly, the 1 Gallon Zip Lock Bag will be large enough. We generally use a 6-9lb belly and need the 2.5 Gallon Bag.

This bag method has been my method of choice with littles in the house. It just minimizes the other potential could-go-wrongs that happen in a very active house where the kids love to help and be part of the cooking process.

The pictures you see throughout this post are from the bag method and closed container, but we have done all three. They all work. But the open container method also dries out the meat, so it definitely does not come out as tender as the other two methods.

The Process

  1. Measure out your seasoning ingredients (in direct relation to the weight of your pork) and set aside.
  2. Remove your Pork Belly from it’s wrappings (whether direct from a butcher or from a wholesale meat provider) and rinse it off to remove any juices that it may have had in its packaging.
  3. Season your meat with the seasoning ingredients, making sure that you have equal amounts on front and back, and all the ends. Be aware of all the creases in the meat and get the seasoning in there–the salt needs to be in here to make sure that all surface areas are covered in adequate salt. (If you are using the bag method, it’s easiest and cleanest to put the pork belly in the bag and season it in the bag. Seal up the bag once you’re finished.)
  4. Close your bag/container and place the pork belly in the fridge.
  5. For 7 whole days, flip the bacon over once in the morning and once in the evening.
  6. Once the 7 days are up, can remove the cured bacon from the fridge or let it continue curing for a few additional days.
  7. Remove the bacon from the bag/container and rinse off your pork belly. (See below for “Rinsing Advice”.)
  8. Now you will low and slow cook or smoke the pork belly, depending on what equipment you have available at your home. If all you have is your oven, set your oven on the lowest possible setting and cook the pork belly until you reach the internal temperature of 165°F. (See Below for “Cooking Options” to hear about the other ways you can cook/smoke the bacon.)
  9. Once you’ve reached the correct internal temperature, you will remove it from the heat source and put it on a plate/tray and cover it with foil and let the pork belly come to room temperature. (See “Tenting Options” below.)
  10. The room temperature pork belly can now be put in the fridge overnight. (See “Cutting Options” below)
  11. Slice the pork belly into the thickness of bacon you prefer, whether thick or thin.

You now have bacon!!!

Use this bacon just as you would with the bacon you’ve previously purchased from the butcher or local grocery store. If you are anything like my family, you will turn into a bacon snob and prefer the slices that you made over the store bought ones.

Rinsing Advice

This rinsing stage is going to look a little different for you depending on what type of salt that you chose to use.

As I mentioned above, my family likes the rock salt because we lean to the savory side of the food world, instead of the salty side. A generous rinsing off of the curing seasoning will leave a mild saltiness to it. A quicker rinse off is the maximum limit of our salt preference, but the starting off point for some of our family members.

If you choose to use a fine salt, a quick rinse is going to leave you with a salt bomb. (I did this once and that bacon was quickly reserved for soups and stews, and I don’t add any of the recipe’s called for salt. This bacon took care of the salt seasoning for the entire dish.) A generous rinse is what I consider a salt lover would prefer. But if you’re like our family of salt-less-is-more camp, but only have fine salt, I recommend filling a large bowl with clean water and letting the pork belly sit it for about a half hour or so. This is not going to undo the curing at all, but it will keep you from puckering from too-salty.

This is one ingredient that no one can tell you how to handle it, because everyone’s preferences are going to be all over the spectrum. So hopefully this section helps assists you in making salt choices that reflect your personal seasoning preference.

Advertisements

Cooking Options

We have cooked our pork bellies on our Traeger Grill and in a proper smoker. Both of these other cooking sources are great options, but our personal favorite is the smoker.

When it comes to grills, whether charcoal or propane, you want to use indirect heat. Even on the lowest setting/heat, it’s going to cook your bacon. This step should take no less than 3 hours. We are talking low and slow. And if you want to add that element of smoke flavor to your bacon, you can use a smoking chamber on your grill, like the one I have a link to below.

If you have a Traeger, or other grill that is a combo smoker, you want to keep your grill on the smoke setting and let the smoke cook your pork belly. It’s been a while since my husband smoked bacon on our Traeger, but he remembers it taking about 3-4 hours. Remember, this isn’t about time as much as it is about reaching that temperature of 165°F using just the heat from the smoke.

My husband loves the smoker that he found on a community “Free” page. This one allows you to customize your meat smoking experience better than a smoker/grill combo unit. His advice for using this cooking option is to soak your wood chips. At a bare minimum you soak them for 30 minutes, but 30-60 minutes is good. And in my ear, my husband is saying, “Do not soak grill pellets!” You definitely want the wood chips. And even with soaked chips, you still want to keep a tray of water in your smoker with your chips and meat. It keeps the humidity just right to keep the juices in your bacon.

The other advice that my husband popped in to give, is that if for whatever reason your pork belly just won’t come to temperature don’t worry. All you have to do is put it in your oven (lowest setting) and finish cooking it to 165°F.

Tenting Options

While this step can be omitted, you might consider to keeping it in your procedure. The tenting helps keep the steam in, instead of evaporating away while it cools down. My husband advocates that this is the secret that keeps his bacon from drying out.

If you want to tent your bacon but don’t want to use foil, you can use your lidded container (just don’t seal it).

Cutting Options

Here is where my husband and I have a slight difference of opinion. I have absolutely no problem slicing my bacon by hand. I’ve been slicing sandwich bread for over 3 years now, so I have a steady hand for this sort of thing. My husband prefers a meat slicer. Knife or machine, I’m an advocate for using what you have on hand.

We both do agree that letting the pork belly rest over night in the fridge is a huge step in your favor. If you slice your bacon at room temperature, you will more than likely find that it shifts on you and your blade slides out of place. By cooling the pork belly over night in the refrigerator, it firms the meat up and makes the slicing that much easier.


Why is it important to cure the pork belly for 7 days?

Depending on who you talk to, or where you look up information, you’re going to find a wide spectrum of curing time as an answer. But before I answer this question I want to make sure we’re on the same page about why we cure meat, in this case bacon.

All throughout history meat has been cured to preserve meat in a time before refrigeration was invented. In fact, many countries today still depend on curing to preserve meat. The enemy of meat (and food in general) is exposure to water, light, and heat. These three things degrade food, promote bacterial growth, and increase the chances of food borne illnesses. Salt is an amazing ingredient, because it changes (in this case) meat in such a way that water is removed and it creates an environment that bacteria does not like or live in.

In fact, in another scenario, I have the perfect example. The yeast that I use to make my bread, when I neglect it, starts to grow bacteria. The whole yeast culture is thrown off and smells horrible. However, this is the culture of wild yeast starter. You have a community here. When the community gets out of balance you have to make changes to bring it back into balance and make the community happy again. Salt does this. I toss in 2 tsp of salt into my out of balance starter, give it a good stir, and by the next day all is right in the world of my wild yeast starter. What happened? The salt changed the environment of the starter. The bacteria became unhappy and quit reproducing. Mean while, the yeast became happy and began to populate again or recovered from its illness (or however you want to look at it.)

Now a pork belly is so much larger than my quart size mason jar of yeast starter. It’s a thriving metropolis in comparison. It takes much longer for salt to infiltrate that pork belly and withdraw the water content of the belly. It takes time for the meat to cure and stabilize itself to withstand the threats to food preservation.

I saw one site say that it takes up to 24 hours to cure bacon using their method. The difference is that they have to inject the salt in deep throughout the pork belly. This method is not using an injection method. It is the meat bringing in the salt, and the salt working its way into the center of the belly. This takes time.

any2ndnow.com

There was another site that I saw claim that it only took 3 days to reach a “mild” cure. Food science being science, either it’s cured or it’s not cured. Cured meat is a process. It is a method. And the proof is behind the results on how the meat holds up over time. There’s nothing wrong with making salted pork. It doesn’t make it cured. It just means that it has a higher salt content that the meat that you pull out of your fridge or freezer. Please, let’s just call salted pork by its rightful name.

Can bacon be cured longer than 7 days? Absolutely! It’s not going to dry your pork belly out unless you’re using an open container. But that only happens because your fridge naturally evaporates water out of food that is left in there without being covered.

And let’s just be clear that evaporation or dehydration is not curing. Dehydration/evaporation is one method of preserving that is purely unique. Curing is an entirely different method of preservation, unique to itself. Every method has its own rules. Anything that doesn’t follow the rules is a different method for a different purpose.

Photo by Jeff Siepman on Pexels.com

I wanted to mention all of this because there were some friends of ours that we walked through the steps of how we cure our bacon. They stopped the curing step at three days and didn’t find the results that we said they should expect. There’s a couple of reasons why their first attempt of curing bacon didn’t turn out, so I can’t write definitively here what went wrong. I do know that we had shared from the same pork belly and the bacon had turned out with the above method. The two biggest suspicions I have is that not all the cuts and groves in the pork belly so the majority of the belly was working on becoming cured, but there were spots where bacteria had the opportunity to grow because the salt wasn’t there to make the meat an uninhabitable environment.

The other big potential of what went wrong is that the salt did not make it into the center of the meat. This is an important issue because remember, we are cooking low and slow. And since the center of meat is the last place to “cook”, this becomes a prime breeding ground for all sorts of potential food problems because salt wasn’t there to keep in check bad cultures. This then comes into realm of poor food handling.

I know that it’s tempting to take short cuts or speed things along quicker than described. We’ve all been there, especially when we’re excited to try a new skill and have great expectations. Please know that no matter how tempting it is, curing meats does take time. It can’t be rushed. And if you don’t believe me, you have to check out the link I have below for 2 Guys & A Cooler. They have amazing methods for making so many different cured meats that I can’t wait to get cracking to try. And what you see there just confirms what I’m saying that great meats take time.

Advertisements

Here are other recipes you may be interested in.

If you’re looking for a Beef Bacon (bypassing the pork all together), this is the recipe that I recommend. Disclosure, I have not tried this recipe yet. But this is the one that I have on hold for when I make that plunge.

If you’re interested in a Pastrami Recipe, this is the one that I have bookmarked.

2 Guys & A Cooler is definitely worth subscribing to if you’re looking at many other ways of curing meat. This link takes you to their video on making Biltong. I like their presentation because it all makes sense after making our own bacon for several years now.


This post contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commissions on products purchased through these links, but at no extra cost to you. These items listed here are from Amazon but may be purchased at local markets.

If a smoker is not in your budget, this might be the tool to meet your needs.

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.

Leave a comment

Advertisements
Advertisements