Fill Up On The Fillings

The holidays are all coming up. And this can bring many feelings to different feelings. When adulting, the hardest part of the holidays are when finances are tight.

To help lighten the mood and bring a little cheer with the gift of flowers.

I’m going to show a simple and easy to make arrangement that you can personalize any way you want because it’s a blank slate. The beauty of it is that I reused some items and others were given to me. I had no out of pocket expenses to share this post with you.

So let’s start with the materials.

Vase

What inspired this post was the vase that my mom had sent me some flowers in.

Fall is my season. I love pumpkin everything. In fact I grow and purchase pumpkins to have all my pumpkin goodness that I can preserve for the rest of the year. And yes, I make pumpkin scones year round because their deliciousness transcends what is in season.

Unfortunately I can’t send you a picture of what the floral arrangement was that my mom sent. Mostly because I want to keep the blank slate in your mind and spark your creativity.

What I like about this white pumpkin is that if you remove all the floral it is literally a cookie jar. So feel free to use this idea any time of year and use cookie jars, old tea pots, water pitchers, even a shoe box (hello baby shower with baby shoe boxes!) Literally, use what you have on hand that brings you inspiration.

If you’re using a cookie jar or anything else with a lid, let me show you the parts of this vase and how it works.

This lid stand/holder is very specific for floral. I’m sure with today’s online offerings, you could find these. But you’re going to have to know what your lid size is and go from there. I have one other cookie jar, but the lid is smaller and this stand/holder definitely will not fit in it.

However I do have two options off the top of my head that I could use from items I have in my house.

I have porcelain dolls from my childhood, and this stand/holder immediately reminded me of the doll stands I have that go around my dolls’ waist. The tension part is too small to fill the lid like in this pumpkin vase, but with two or three I could position them in the smaller lid to make the tension and platform to raise the lid.

Another option is making one from a thick gauge wire. If your local store has a DIY floral department or aisle, you will find wire thick enough to hold its shape and hold the weight of a lid. If you want to price comparison shop, go to an automotive shop or aisle. You’ll often find that you will get a better price in that department, but also walk out with a larger quantity of wire.

Once you have the wire, you can make your own custom holder/stand by leaving several inches of one leg sticking out as you then go in and create a loop of wire inside the lip of your cookie jar lid. I would make a few loops inside that lid to ensure that when you move and manipulate the legs that you don’t shrink your loop and allow your lid to fall. Once you’re confident in you loop, bring out a second leg and then use wire cutters to cut the wire. You can always add more than two legs if you feel like you need to add more stability.

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Inner Stability

For lid placement, you will need something to anchor the stand into.

I’m choosing to reuse the oasis that came with the flowers my mom sent me. This is an amazing product because it not only allows you to place flowers like a pin in a pin cushion. It also allow absorbs and holds water, keeping your flowers in water much longer than free standing in just a vase of water.

If you want to use silk flowers that you have on hand, feel free to use a Styrofoam ball or block. (I don’t recommend styrofoam for fresh flowers because the plastic will kill your flowers and won’t allow them to be properly hydrated.

Once you’ve decided what you’re using as a structure (of if you’re even using a structure), you may find that you need to piece bits together to keep them from falling into your cookie jar and becoming lost. Flower stems are enough to keep bits together. However if you need everything to be in place before you get started on your flowers, know that toothpicks or a couple inches of wire are your best friend.

As you can see here, a single toothpick is all that was needed to hold up a water logged piece of oasis.

This is a beneficial trick if you only have a small sliver of oasis that doesn’t touch the bottom of your vase. Or even if you find that your oasis fell apart on you. Or maybe some oasis you salvaged was a different size than the vase you are working with. You can certainly make your oasis fit the vessel you choose to use.

TIP: Please note that placing a toothpick or wire in a 90° angle is going to cause frustration. The weight of wet oasis and flowers are going to collapse. So instead, angle the toothpick at a 45° angle. That way when gravity starts to work against you, the toothpick will hold its place. This will be further reinforced by the flowers that you soon add.

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Flowers

The Flowers that I was gifted after an event I attended was baby’s breath and eucalyptus. Often we look at these as just fillers to make an arrangement look larger than the more desired stems.

I wanted to use these fillers specifically because they are often overlooked for being used as flowers on their own. Maybe you have a lot of fillers left over from other arrangements that you made. Or maybe your budget is tight and these are the only flowers that are in your price range.

There are so many other fillers that you can find in your grocery store. So please keep your eyes open. And not all stores offer the same offerings. The grocery stores don’t supply very many filling options. However, stores like Trader Joe’s offer the best selection of filler flowers in my area. And their prices are quite affordable.

TIP: If your local store doesn’t offer many choices for filler flowers take a look at what is available for discounted flowers. They’re the ones that have the more delicate flowers that are wilted. These discounted bouquets are often cheaper than just fillers flowers, but the fillers used in these bouquets still have a long life to them. There are a huge number of flowers that will last weeks without even having water available to them. So know that even all that you can afford is a heavily discounted, on its last leg bouquet, if there’s a decent amount of fillers included, you can make a decent arrangement even if you have to throw out the wilted roses, lilies, and other delicate petal flowers.

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Arranging

When looking at using long stems of filler, like eucalyptus, you will be happier in how these stems lie when you hold them up and see which direction they are naturally bending. (See the right picture below.) If you want the stem to cascade down, angle the bend down and also put it in the oasis by entering from the bottom and putting the stem upward. This can be seen in the picture on the left.

See the difference between placing firm eucalyptus stems. Using the left picture (above) the stems you see in the bottom right corner are the stems that I angled from the bottom of the oasis and pushed upward. The one stem that is in the upper left corner is the one that I pushed from the top and downward. But this stem I also used a second trick. Even with the curve of this stem, it had the tendency to stand upright. So I curved the stem in a C shape and kind of hooked the stem in the oasis. Then I put the pumpkin lid over this stem to weigh it down. Even with this trick, the stem never gave a cascading down effect like you see with the bottom right corner stems.

How you place the stems is everything about how it stands up or lays down.

The baby’s breath is much easier to shape the way that you want. For this cookie jar I used about four stems of baby’s breath and snipped them down into smaller branches. And with an arrangement like this, there’s no need for long pieces. All you need are the “scrap” pieces or bits that are the size of your hand or smaller.

If you “scrap” pieces or the bits that you cut down are too small, it just means that you need more of them to fill larger spaces.

One work around for filling empty spaces quicker is to take larger pieces like this. In the below picture on the left is a stem that is about the length of my elbow to my wrist. It could have been trimmed down into four smaller stems, but I wanted to fill a large hole with just this one piece.

To close up the gap spacing between these branches, slide your fingers up the main stem, gathering all the stems up the main stem. That gathering bunches all the stems up to achieve what you see in the right picture. You will have to hold you stem in this position until you push it into the oasis. At that point, the foam holds bunching in place.

Before you place your first gathered stem, I want to draw your attention to a stem feature that has the potential of causing you some up front frustration.

The weakest part of the baby’s breath stem is the joint where all the branches merge. The times that stems snap, when placing them in oasis, is when I try to push these joints in without giving them assistance.

If you have an arrow tip like you see above, it’s easiest if you just snip that off. It causes resistance, when pushed in the oasis, that you don’t need, because those stem numbs have no flowers.

Look further up on the stem and you see what it looks like when you have attached flowering stems. When I don’t need the height from the stem, I snip it right there at the base of where all the stems merge. Then I slide my fingers down to make more of an arrow point instead of a tear drop. That fat end of the tear drop is difficult to push into oasis. However, if you make a sharper point, or a smaller surface area to push in, the stem slides right into the oasis.

If there are any other merges in the stem, it’s easiest if you pinch it smaller to get it to go into the foam. Depending on how large of a cluster you have, there may be a few of these joints that you have to manipulate into the foam.

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Final Adjustments

Once you’ve filled in all your empty space, there’s a few decisions to make.

  • Do you add more of one filler or the other?
  • Was there too much and some needs to be removed?
  • Does placement need to be adjusted?
  • Is something missing?

I looked at the final arrangement here and went through these same questions. All the holes I filled with baby’s breath as that’s what I chose to be primary flower out of these two fillers.

The thought crossed my mind to add more eucalyptus. But I opted with the creative decision of having less leaves on my pumpkin “vines”. So that meant instead of removing branches of eucalyptus I chose to weave the branches through the clusters of baby’s breath.

As far as “am I missing anything?” that is the question that is always there when you have a blank canvas for an arrangement.

Right now this is how my pumpkin sits in my living room. But it also allows me to keep this long lasting arrangement in season through the rest of the year. For Thanksgiving, I could add fall leaves or any other fall accent pieces. For December all the fall accent pieces can be pulled out of the oasis and winter pieces added. For example, I would put in snowflakes or mini presents. In fact, I’m eye balling some mini glitter snowflakes while writing this. The question is if I want to keep with the white color and add silver glitter snowflakes. Or do I want to add a splash of color and put in gold snowflakes?

But that’s the beauty of making a simple arrangement like this. I can dress it up and change it.

In fact, I could keep this up for the New Year and put in foil clusters that look like fireworks.

For now I’m just going to have to contain myself and not entertain my kids. It’s so easy to grab their small stuffies and other toys and use them as props to make little scenes. We don’t do Elf on the Self in our house, but just like there’s millions of Pinterest posts on Elf on the Shelf ideas, there’s just as many possibilities for arrangements like this. It doesn’t matter if you have a pumpkin cookie jar like vase (like I used here) or a teapot or coffee cup. No matter what you are using as a unique vase, you have just as many options to accessorize and decorate without limits.

How would you dress up a pumpkin arrangement like this?


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Patience Grasshopper

It never fails that each year something doesn’t go to plan. This past grow season, many growers across the US complained that what came up in their gardens was not the seeds that they bought.

What I found interesting was that it wasn’t one seed supplier that had a seed mishap, but a handful of large seed companies. It wasn’t one seed type, but several.

Across social platforms some growers tried to pacify upset growers by saying that mistakes happen. And the response often was that this doesn’t happen on the large scale that it did happen.

Truly, it was a weird moment, especially when so many people long for a time of no more surprises and life as normal as possible.

The problem is that if you’re not self sufficient in management of your seeds, you are vulnerable to the surprises that happen to other growers that you are dependent on. None of my seeds were packaged wrong. However I did order garlic over the summer. Shortly before delivery time I received an email telling me that one of the varieties that I ordered had a bad grow season so there were heads that were going to be sold this year.

No problem, I shifted my order to another variety. And this inconvenience probably worked out in my favor. My replacement order is a variety that will do much better with the winter that’s projected.

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These are just a couple examples of what can happen when our seeds come from other growers. And as much as it feels unfair and out of our control, it serves as a good reminder that there is a skill we can all learn… Seed saving.

There are many benefits for saving your own seeds for next year’s garden. Provided that nothing happens to your crop, you are guaranteed seeds. These seeds have a memory that is specific for your microclimate. And if you have a surplus of seeds, you can trade them with neighbors.

One thing that I love about learning how to seed save is that I learn the whole life cycle of the plants that I grow.

Here are a few seeds that I collected this year.

Parsley

I kind of laughed when I saw my Parsley. The weather has been so weird lately that I had three different stages of seed production all at the same time. As you look at the pictures below you’ll see the progression from the tail end of the flower stage, into the green seed stage, and finally the mature seed stage.

Just with these three pictures, it’s easy to see why you have to have patience when you are waiting for your seeds to mature. And this is the reason why I wanted to share this information with you is because schools don’t teach you how to look for mature seeds. In a botany class you’ll see diagrams of the seed stage. But it is experience that shows you when it’s the right time to collect.

If you are unaware of what to look for, you can see seeds and make the mistake of collecting the seeds at that moment in time and you’re completely unaware that you saved seeds that are immature and will more than likely never sprout in the spring when you try to germinate them. Mature seeds are what you want to re-grow plants successfully.

TIP: If you’re unsure if you have mature seeds yet, take a small section of seeds now and leave the majority on the plant. If the seeds are green, the next time you go out and see a change in the seeds you will then know that what you first collected was immature seeds. Discard those seeds. If you think that you now have mature seeds, take a small section and save those seeds and leave a large number on the plant to further mature. If the seeds on the plant change, then you collected immature seeds. Discard those seeds. Once mature seeds have arrived they are only on the plant for a couple of days before they fall to the ground for self seeding.

Another benefit that this parsley gave me is that it gives you a place examination of seeing different stages. When first saving seeds, none of us know what to look for. We learn through trial and error or from someone who knows the life cycle of the plant and tells you specifically what to look for when gathering seeds. Going back to Parsley above, this particular plant shows that the seeds are ready when the seeds have turned black.

Sometimes flowering seeds are not as easy to recognize.

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Catnip

This is my second year with Catnip, even though I sowed seeds for it 3 years ago. This is the first year that the plant actually bloomed for me, and it was only this one stalk of flowers that you see here.

When I look closely at this stalk, it seems like I have captured a few different seed stages as well. There’s an obvious white blossom section still present. There’s one section that looks like it might be green seeds, it looks like a head of wheat berries. And then there is also one section (in the tallest branch) where I see a black seed and what looks like empty pods where seeds have dropped out.

The problem is that I tried looking up seed stages from this plant and I haven’t yet been able to find any source that helps me identify what mature seeds look like.

Because I grew this plant from seed, and I still have seeds left over, I can go back to the original seeds and see what those mature seeds look like.

But if you don’t have the benefit of mature seeds to compare with, there is this process of trial and error that you need to go through to learn the life cycle of seed growth to figure out what it is that you’re looking for. (See the TIP above.)

What I did want to draw your attention to is that even with flowering plants/herbs, the seeds are not all going to present themselves the same. Catnip and Parsley are both herbs. Parsley exposes it seed before it falls. Catnip looks like there is a pod covering, something akin to how seeds are presented in the Brassica vegetable family. The seed is grown inside a pod and once the seeds are mature, the pods open and the seeds drop.

I suspect that Catnip holds seeds in a single pod because when I look closely there is a transparent skin like “flower” that is empty. Now the flowers of catnip are not transparent. They are a very opaque white (at least on my catnip) flower that has shown itself to be hardy. (If you zoom in on the middle two branches you can see the remnants of these flowers on the decline. It’s very different in appearance to what you see in the tallest branch/section.) These transparent skins are mostly in this tallest branch/section. And when you look closely there, you see a single black seed. These black seeds are the mature seeds. (I pulled out my packet of catnip seeds that I had originally purchased. The seeds are black and small. So I can confirm this seed.)

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Oregano

Most people never see the seeds from Oregano or other herbs (like Basil) because everyone is warned to prune off the flowers in order to promote a longer leaf grow season. And once the flowers develop, we’re told that the leaf changes its flavor. At the best it’s just a flavor change. At worst, the leaves become unpalatable. Because of this, most growers prune off the flowers as they start to grow at the end of the season.

If you want to have seeds, you have to leave the flowers on the plant and show patients. Pollinators have to go to work on these blossoms. When they are pollinatedyou have to wait even longer for the seeds to develop and grow.

I wasn’t planning on growing seeds on my oregano that I’ve grown in a basket and overwintered in a greenhouse. (I’ve noticed that some growers discourage overwintering oregano because the flavor becomes less desirable when you treat it like a perennial. However I’ve noticed no real change in leaf flavor. This was the first year that it bloomed on me, so I’ll have to wait until next year and try the leaves after being overwintered again.)

What I wanted to show with Oregano is that the seeds grow a little different. It’s similar to what I showed with Parsley, where the seeds are presented in a very obvious way. But instead of being a single seed spaced out in a firework cluster formation, the seeds of Oregano have a gathered cluster head.

The seeds here are a little more obvious to identify. But I wanted to talk about herbs like Oregano because as growers we are so accustomed to prevent seeding in favor of harvesting. I want to suggest that if it’s your desire to save as many seeds from the plants that you grow in the event that you have a surety of preserving what you use for food and medicine, it might be time to make a conscious decision to let the blossoms grow and go to seed so that you can collect. This is particularly a good idea if you haven’t learned how to clone that particular plant and you want to share with loved ones what you have been having success with.

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Stevia

Stevia is a new to me plant. This past year I had found this start at a local shop and wanted to give it a go for growing. I’ve never seen what the seeds look like for this plant. And truly I know nothing about this plant other than the leaves are sweet and a viable alternative for sugar, if you’re looking for self sustaining options for providing for your family.

Where I am at now with this plant is not much further than where I was when I started. However, I’ve come to learn that the plant that I purchased grows in stalks instead of bushes. The longest stalk is about 3 feet tall. Currently it’s “dying” off for the season very similar to my Lemon Balm. The leaves became mottled (black and green). Unfortunately the latest wind storm caused my planter to fall and split the main stalk. (I’ll try to triage this stalk and see if I can bring it back. The break looks clean and free from disease. And to give it the best chance to over winter I’ll put it in a flowerbed that’s a bit more protected from the weather.)

I didn’t set out to find how stevia propagated. Originally I thought it might be a perennial bush that spread instead of going to seed. However, one day out taking care of fall tasks, I found that the stevia had gone to seed. And that is what you see above. I have no idea what stage these seeds are at. I did snip this from the top of a stalk and left the other three stalks as they were (also seed bearing). That was two weeks ago and all the seeds are now gone.

The walk away lesson is that seeds take forever to grow. And then they are gone before you think about it.

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Gladiolus

While talking about flowering seeds, I wanted to show one last example of how flowers can produce seeds. A Gladiola is officially a bulb flower, but it produces seeds.

As you can see here, at the bulb of the gladiola, the seeds form underground.

If you’ve grown gladiolus, you know that they don’t produce seeds from their flowers. But if you’ve also grown bulb flowers you are also aware that bulbs (daffodil, tulip, chrysanthemum to name a few) duplicate themselves with a single additional bulb. So when you look at this picture and see all these seeds, you start to question everything you thought you knew.

The people who owned our home before us grew gladiolus out front. When I was ready to pursue gardening, gladioli were not on my list. For several years I kept pulling the stalks of each new gladiola and wondered what was going on. It didn’t matter if I pulled in the spring or fall, They just kept coming back. And If I left one because life was just too busy, the next season a half dozen would pop up. And that’s the short story about how I learned that gladiolus had seeds.

One year I pulled one up, like you see in the picture, and saw all the seeds forming on the bulb. And everything suddenly made sense. If I pulled the bulb after the seeds had formed (and subsequently stayed in the ground) of course a new garden of gladiolus would spring up next year.

This is one seed that if you do a search, you will find pictures of seeds and even a couple articles that talk about them.

Other seeds you will also find talked about online are seeds that are collected from the petals of flowers (marigolds and bachelor buttons to name a few).

As you can see, just by talking about seeds that come by flowers there is a whole world that opens up. And all of it because not all seeds look the same or are produced the same.

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Seed Memory

Each spring packets of seeds are always on sale in brick and mortar stores. Starts are readily available at farmer’s markets, local growing communities, and certain stores. But as we saw with online seed sales, mistakes happen. What you think you purchased can turn out to be something different. It doesn’t matter if it was a true accident or something that was designed to happen. The walking away point that we can all move forward with is that the only seeds that are in your control are the ones that you save yourself.

I started saving seeds from my vegetable garden as a way of saving money when purchasing seeds and starts. “Free” seeds frees up your resources for other areas in your life. And if you know what to look for, you can read the signs for when your seeds are finished and ready to harvest.

In the future, I’ll share more about other seeds that I save (fruits, vegetables, herbs, etc.). I see the benefit in sharing because they may look different than what you anticipate. Or maybe you want to grow something new and have no idea what to look for. And when you go to search online, you don’t have any valuable information. And let’s face it, sometimes a picture is all we need to make the dots connect and understanding comes. And pictures are usually the thing that I find lacking.

But even more important than all this is what the seeds contain!

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When you grow a plant, it passes on its knowledge through seeds. There’s no school that plants send their seedlings to so they can figure out how to live and survive. All of that is passed on in the DNA of the seed. When people talk about this, they say it’s Seed Memory.

Seed memory is so important because that is how plants produce young so that it will succeed in its environment. And this is the absolute reason why you want to save seeds.

When you buy seeds from online, you are purchasing seeds that are grown in one micro climate. While the grow zone number can be the same, there is a world of difference in the actual living conditions. For example, my US grow zone in the Pacific Northwest is the same number as certain places in the Deep South. And if you’ve been to both regions you will know that while there is similarities, but there are a lot of differences to the micro climates as well. In fact, one of my favorite online shops to buy from is located in the Midwest which has even more different microclimate than the Pacific Northwest and the Deep South. And that doesn’t even touch the differences between the microclimates in the Pacific Northwest region. In fact, the grow season is differential enough between my city and certain areas in the city next to me. Not to mention between my county and the next.

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The plants that you grow from seeds that are purchased are plants that are grown in a different microclimate. This can be affected by how much humidity they expect to face, the amount of natural rain fall, frost dates, seasonal average weather, and so much more. The plant that I grow from seed expects my garden to be exactly like the garden that its parent plant grew in. And when that seedling starts to grow, it finds that it’s a different world out there. This can affect growth patterns, when fruit forms, and how and when seeds set.

If you start off with seeds that were saved from your own garden, the seedlings from those seeds do not have to readjust to a foreign world. They already have the seed memory for the microclimate that you are in. They know when spring hits, when the weather starts to warm up, when summer starts, when fall will start to bring the cooler weather, and when frost should happen. The seedlings get to focus their energy more on growth and will always outpace seeds that are from other regions.

That doesn’t mean that purchased seeds will fail. It just means that there is more going against those seeds that they have to overcome.

You will always have better success with seeds that you can save from your own garden.

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Another thing about seed memory is that all the adversities that your garden faces, it will pass on in seed memory for future seedlings. For example, two years ago my garden had two winter seasons that jumped straight into a summer season.

Because I planted those seeds in my garden this past spring, those seedlings were ready for uncharacteristically cold spring. Those seedlings thrived and grew well from the get go, because they were not thrown off by a cool spring (which was still warmer than the spring of the parent plant).

What my garden struggled with this year was a decent spring that went into a cool summer (10-20°F cooler than the historic average). The seeds that I save this year (for my next growing season) now have the memory of a cool spring (from its “grandparents”) and a cool summer (from its “parents”).

While I don’t anticipate my garden producing super plants with all this seed memory. I DO anticipate that my starts will grow strong (even if it’s a cold spring) and will bear fruit according to growth/produce dates (even if it’s a cool summer) because the seed memory tells those seedlings to anticipate this obstacles to the grow season.

I have yet to find a study that talks about how far back seed memory goes. It is reasonable for seeds to remember two generations back. However it is not unreasonable for the seed memory to be uncalculatable. After all, as growers we are told that seeds are only viable for 3-5 years with germination rates declining with each and every year. However a palm tree was planted from a seed 2000 years old. Much of seed viability is dependent on the maturity of seeds, how they were harvested, how they were stored, and how they are sown.

As I’ve told many people this past grow season…

If you had a bad grow season, or things didn’t grow for you at all, chances are that you are not to blame.

The last 2 years of traceable weather obstacles that played a bigger part in your garden’s health than your affinity to growing plants. The memory of the seeds that you used had more to say about your harvest than the things that you did or did not do during the grow season.

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What is in your control is how you pivot as a grower based off of the signs and calculatable information that you respond to during a grow season.

For example, one lady was surprised when I told her that since the beginning of 2023 and until Fall rains came, our microclimate was recorded to have had drought like conditions. In the winter we were in the tenth of an inch of rain on days we should have been having 3-5 inches of rain. Spring was the same way. Summer was summer as usual as far as historic rain levels hold.

She asked me, “Even though we had timed water irrigation.”

Yes, even timed water irrigation. Even though we as growers set our watering schedule as a means to remember to water, maximize our watering efforts, and conserve water… we are only adding to what normally falls as rain during each of our seasons.

Our gardens use the following math:

x rain volume + y additional water from grower = total growth water

Y can remain a constant through many many years, depending on when you started your timed irrigation.

X fluctuates depending on what falls naturally. (And this is a subject all of its own, depending on the circles of conversations you have.)

Plants depend (through seed memory) on the total growth water. If the water you provide is the same that you’ve always done in the past, but the rain volume has changed, there is going to be a difference in how your plants grow.

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When growers talk about how a certain crop needs only 1″ (for example) of water a week, that is under the assumption that your garden is receiving regular rain water for the rest of the week. A plant does not depend on water from grower as their only source of water.

So if your garden struggled, it is entirely because there was a growth need in the seed memory that was not met during the grow season.

And that is what our job as growers is all about.

We need to recognize the signs. Know the history of our seeds. Work in connection with our plants to bring out the necessities and health that our plants need to produce for us and our families.

If you haven’t started yet, I encourage you to learn about the plants that you grow and start saving your own seeds to plant in upcoming years!


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Clove One Clove All

The frost has come to my neck of the woods. And that means that it was time to get some of my fall gardening work done. I pulled out the wood chips that I bought on sale at the beginning of summer.

Originally the wood chips was supposed to go over our garden beds this past season, along with some drip irrigation, to start us on the path of water conservation. However a cold summer and life happening just kept pushing that task lower on the to-do list. Not that I’m sad about that. It meant that I had the materials to winterize my garden in a way that I was not planning almost half a year ago.

A lot of our projects turn out being out way of adding to our grow space without taking up more yard space. And this should be encouraging to you, because it means that you also have permission to make your own grow space one small project at a time. There really is no need to wait until you have farmable land to start growing your garden. Start in your urban or suburban area, one space at a time, building up what you can grow, however you can grow it.

We started off with one small garden plot with a blueberry bush, a few raspberry canes, and two different types of vegetables.

Today, I worked on expanding my grow space for garlic. Up until today I was growing garlic in one garden plot about 2 feet by 4 feet. And we wanted to grow more garlic to become self sufficient in that produce. We love it as a seasoning and main ingredient in the foods we eat throughout the year. But we’ve also come to appreciate it more as a food that is also a medicine. So it was time to grow more because we can control how it’s grown.

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Growing Concerns

Something you may not be aware of is that in the US market most heads of garlic, in the grocery stores, are being imported from China. And depending on how you view your food choices, Chinese garlic may not line up with how you want your food to be grown.

Note: garlic grown locally will still have some of the roots still visible in the bottom of the garlic head. Garlic that is imported from China, the roots are shaved off so that you have a smooth, flat surface where the roots should be.

Another concern with foods bought at US grocery stores is what you can find on the produce ID code. On the stickers placed on produce, you can learn what type of product you are buying. If the four digit number starts with a 3 or 4, it is conventionally grown. Pesticides have also been used on those products. (Dangers of pesticides can be seen here. Although this is a huge conversation and this is a brief mention in this post. But I do want to note that food is being brought in from less regulated countries.) If the number is 9, it is organically grown.

But there are other numbers to be aware of. A five digit PLU code starting with a 3 means the fruit was either irradiated or electronically pasteurized. (Dangers of irradiation can be found here.) A five digit code, starting with an 8, means that it was genetically modified.

These are just a few points of interest that overlooked that the average consumer may not be aware of. And growing your own produce gives you awareness of how your food is grown from start to finish.

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Setting up Garlic Grow Boxes

A few months ago I had fixed loose boards by using a power drill and screwing the boards back to the frame. Had I not done that earlier, this is the time of year that I would normally to that mending job. But the best time to mend grow boxes is when you have one crop harvested and right before you put in the next one.

Make a Container You Will Love is how I start off all my new boxes. This time I reused one of my existing boxes. My onions didn’t do so well in it this past grow season, so I’m changing it up to see how my garlic will do here.

Before I put the garlic in, I needed to break up the compacted soil, remove some grass that had started to grow, and more importantly, mend the box. After three full seasons of growing, the liner in the grow box had started to rip away. So once the weeding was done, I pulled the black liner back up and staple it in place with a staple gun.

With the liner secure, this frees me up to really dig into the soil to fluff it up and move it around and break up all the compacting that has happened over the last couple years.

Once the soil was ready to go I reached for the new garlic that I ordered to plant this year. In this box I’m planting German Extra Hardy Garlic (a hard neck variety).

Earlier I mentioned looking at the roots of the garlic head. Here you can see the roots (trimming the roots is part of the curing process, but you can see the individual roots. This is what you want to see when you buy garlic).

Now that I’m ready to plant the garlic, I break the head down to individual cloves. Once they’re broken down, they’re ready to plant.

When planting garlic, the general rules are:

  • Plant the cloves 3″ below soil level
  • Plant each clove pointy side up
  • Plant each clove 6″ away from each other
  • Add an additional 1″ soil over your whole plot
  • Then add 3-6″ of mulch on the very top

I have modified and moved away some of these rules in the past. In the previous location that I grew garlic, it was in a sheltered garden bed next to the house. So I never mulched those garlic and they grew perfectly fine in my climate.

The cloves that I planted in previous years did well when the tips of the bulbs were 1″ below soil level. If I put them 2-3″ deep, they remained dormant until I moved the soil around and those cloves were brought higher up.

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If, when spring comes, you don’t see the shoots of the garlic popping through the soil, then you may want to consider pushing away a little bit of the soil. But garlic is one of the produce that has been one of the easier crops to grow and there shouldn’t be problems at all.

Seeing how I’m growing new garlic varieties, and in raised beds, I set up the boxes closer to the “rules”. The only modification that I’m making is the spacing between each clove. As you see below, I’m offsetting the rows. By offsetting, this allows me to plant an additional two rows that I wouldn’t have had room with if I kept the cloves is a perfect grid like pattern. This is something I’ve learned from other gardeners and have applied with other produce that I’ve grown. And seeing how I grow with limited areas, this is a smarter way of using space and maximizing harvest.

Once all the cloves were placed where I wanted them (larger cloves more to the center of the box and smaller ones towards the edges–larger cloves are expected to grow larger heads) I put soil over the top, about an inch or two, and leveled it off.

Then to finish off the box, I topped it off with bark mulch.

This year I mulched my boxes because I have more containers that I’m using over the winter than I’ve used in the past. And since I don’t have enough greenhouse plastic to cover everything, I’m going to use the mulching method which is more commonly used. I do have a few small, new, boxes that I’m using this year that is away from a warm shelter. So I will be keeping an eye on these boxes in particular. If it looks like the soil is going to freeze over too much, the plan is to set up some carbon fiber hoops and surround the boxes with greenhouse plastic. (I have one variety of garlic and my ginger that I definitely don’t want to lose.)

Always have a backup plan!

One brief thing that I want to mention is to be aware of what kind of material that you are using for mulch. Always look at the Ingredients on the bag.

Most people are at least aware of looking on ingredient labels when they are going out to buy food from the store. Whether it’s a food allergy or just awareness that some gross things are being put into our food that effect our overall health, more and more people are beginning to take on this practice.

The same is true about what you put on your garden!

I bought this mulch, on sale, about 6 months ago. The original mulch that I was going to buy had a better sale. But when I found the ingredient list on the bag of wood chips I saw more than a handful of chemicals that were used in the product. It was advertised to prevent weeds from growing. But the reason why they could make that promise was because of what they were using in the wood chips. There was not just herbicide, but also chemicals that kept the wood color treated. Nothing of what I saw on that label reflected how I try to keep my garden as natural and organic as I can.

If you take a look at the picture above, on the left, you will notice that this ingredient list is listed with only one thing–aged forest product. For me, this was a better choice than the one that had well over 20 ingredients. I didn’t mind spending an extra $1 a bag when it meant that it fit a closer to my gardening philosophy.

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Prepping an Existing Garlic Bed

Earlier I had mentioned that we’ve been growing garlic for several years, before we became aware of the wonders and beauty of different varieties. My earlier garlic bed is kind of funny because we grew so many different varieties in there that we have no idea what kind of garlic they are. That is other than Elephant Garlic. There’s no mistaking that variety with the others that we have grown.

This past growing year, I let this garden bed go fallow (something that I will talk more about in the future). As you can see here, you will notice the shoots of the garlic already coming up.

When I say that we had a crazy grow season, I’m not joking. We had two springs instead of a spring and a summer, so quite a few of my plants are off on their cycle. But these shoots are great when it comes time to getting garlic beds ready for the winter.

With how close these shoots are, my guess is that these were some of the cloves that had been planted too deep and didn’t get a chance to grow because other things were growing near them. With this bed allowed to go fallow, these cloves were able to have the opportunity to sprout.

Each year I take these clumps, dig around them to loosen the soil, and separate out the cloves that had at one time been a whole garlic head. Once they are all dug out, I loosen the whole bed and mix in some compost. Then I replant all the cloves with the proper distance.

I’m beginning to think that my garlic bed acts much the same as where you plant potatoes. Once you plant them there, they will keep growing back.

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Another Theory for Garlic that Keeps Growing Back

When we first started growing garlic, we were told that we needed the garlic to go to seed before harvesting. So for a few years that’s what we did. We even tried to harvest the seeds. I just couldn’t seem to sync by time right with the seeds.

Then we learned that harvesting the scapes (the part that develops and grows the seeds) changes the flow of the plant. Instead of making seeds, energy is redirected to the bulb to enable the bulb to grow larger than it would if left to go to seed.

So my other theory for garlic growing back year after year, when I pull all the garlic that grows, is that the seeds that fell to the ground germinated and started to lifecycle of new garlic, not from planting cloves, but from seed.

Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Closing Thoughts

The amazing thing about growing garlic is that it is one of the easiest things you can grow and least demanding. You can work a full time job and have busy weekends and still successfully grow garlic.

If you’ve wanted to try and grow something, I highly recommend garlic.

It is forgiving. And it tells you when it’s ready to harvest. Through the season the garlic grows a tall stalk. When it’s finished growing, the stalks will brown and fall over. And that’s not even talking about how many different resources are available if there’s a specific question you have about growing garlic.

If you’re looking for something new to grow or found that the garlic cloves you have in your kitchen starting to grow a green sprout, go ahead and plant it in some soil and grow your own garlic!

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Ombre Fun

While I made a component for last weekend’s Maker’s Market I played with glitter. I slowed down my mass production to share an easy way of creating an ombre effect that’s nearly effortless and will take every time for me.

The secret is all about your glue choice.

Growing up I always used Elmer’s Glue for sticking power. For ombre work, I find it’s the worst glue. There’s a few reasons for this, but for me the biggest problems I had was holes between two colors, awful looking clumping, and stark lines that just looked weird.

I’ve switched to using cheap watery glue instead.

Have you ever watched a professional cookie maker flood the icing to get that smooth design? Using watery glue has the same effect for creating glitter ombre!

So whether you’re new to crafting with glitter or use glitter on everything, more fluid glue is going to be your best friend. You can glue the sections you want to use one color glitter. Or you can lay down all your glue at once. The fluid movement of this type of glue is going to cause the glitter to drift a little and cause a natural blend. Not only that but if you have to go back in and add more glue because a spot was unexpectedly dry, a single drop will fill that hole and spread into the already laid glitter with no gaps.

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Laying Down the Glue All at Once

This is my favorite way of doing ombre, particularly because I want to move quickly and optimize my production time.

First I get my glitter selection lined up. This is what allows me to lay a handful of colors while the glue is still wet.

Before I lay down the glue, I also decide which direction I want my colors to run; horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.

With that all prepped, that’s when I go ahead and lay the glue. I start at one end of my element and shake the glitter side to side to make a straight line. (Or a zig zag if I want peaks and valleys.)

If I’m going to make my own color blend, I’ll go ahead and shake out all the colors at once, without stopping between colors to put them back in their containers.

However, if I’m keeping my colors true, then I’ll lay that first edge color. Then shake off the excess with the glitter side down. Put the glitter away. Then grab the next color, shake out that next line. Shake off the excess with glitter side down. And repeat the whole process until all my glitter is put away.

Just so that you can go into this with confidence, I want to share with you the colors that I used here in Welcome Fall. The first color I used was a pale gold (as opposed to the bright and bold gold you usually see during Christmas). I followed that up with a bright pumpkin orange. And the final was a cherry red. I didn’t have concerns with the gold and orange because they had a similar base color that matched perfectly. The red doesn’t look bad here. I pulled it off in the final project that this was going on. However if you ever find that you’re questioning your color choices before you glue, I highly recommend taking some of the neighboring color and adding it in with the color you are hesitant with. This will tone down, and help bring the color into the family.

OR… another option, which you’ll see in the second picture above, let your middle color slide down on the glue and creates a drip effect. This will help from creating a stark line that can potentially form with colors of glitter that compete with each other.

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Making Your Own Blend

As I mentioned above, you can blend your colors together. This green that I made is a perfect example of what happens when you blend.

The only green glitter I had on hand was a lime green that I bought from a spring line of glitter. There was no way that I could make that Easter egg green work in a fall theme. So I grabbed my blue and purple glitters to blend a darker green. If you look closely at this picture, you might be able to pick up the different colors. Around the middle, you’ll see some grains of blue that has a turquoise to it. And then around the perimeter you see the darkness of the purple glitter.

Maybe, you don’t want to make your own darker shade of green. Maybe you want a different color. How do you mix it?

Think about mixing paint and how when you use primary colors (red, yellow, blue) you make secondary colors (orange, green, purple). Glitter is going to work in the same manner. The big difference is that you’re not changing the individual grains of glitter to a new color. You’re creating the illusion of a new color by mixing different colors.

For the green that I made, I used the blue to take away the brightness of the lime. These two colors still have a fresh spring green color, so the addition of a darker color, like purple, makes the green dark. I didn’t use precise measurements. I added a little bit at a time so I don’t use my whole glitter stash and run out of colors to make corrections. Over all, it came down to the ratio of the lime taking up 50-60%, blue 30-40%, and purple 10-20%

The cherry red that I mentioned earlier, I partnered it with maroon that I absolutely love. The thought crossed my mind that I might need to make more of it because I bought it last fall and haven’t seen it since. My plan was to take the cherry red, mix a little bit of navy blue glitter (bright reds have an orange base and rich reds have a blue base–my reason for adding blue), and then black to get the red darker without changing the base color of the read. Brown would be an option if I wanted a lighter maroon. But for this dark maroon, black is the go to glitter.

The added bonus of mixing your own glitter blend is that you add dimension and something dimension to look at. Don’t get me wrong, glitter is enticing enough on its own. But the next time you play with glitter, mix a small batch of a color and look at it in comparison to the original flat color. You’ll understand what I’m talking about when it gives you something a little more.

Other Ideas

Before I close this post, I want to offer one more idea of what you can do to give your glitter work some dimension and adding a little “extra” to your work.

Take a look at “Give Thanks” in the picture above.

This one is a bit more subtle than the striped ombre, so you may need to get a closer look at this wooden tag. The picture doesn’t do it justice in comparison to what it looks like in person. But this is two different shades of gold. The darker (and more orange) gold is applied as a shadow on the left hand side of each of the letters.

Earlier I mentioned shaking glitter in a v or w shape to create a chevron pattern.

You can easily make poke a dots by dropping spots in one color and then surrounding the dots with a different color.

Feel free to not just play with colors, but also experiment with shapes and patterns. Depending on what pattern you’re making, you may need to be specific with how you lay down your glue. But there is no reason why you can’t make leaves, plaids, or anything else in glitter. If it becomes difficult to maintain shapes, take breaks between your layers. This will keep the glue from running and distorting the shape/pattern you make.

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A Finishing Tip

The one disadvantage to working with fluid glue is that your glue might shed glitter because it doesn’t have the stick to keep the glitter in place. There are a couple of options that you have to seal in your glitter to minimize or eliminate shedding.

The first thing that I used, many many many years ago, was hair spray. This has the least about of stick out of the options I’ll share. It’s great if you’re in a pinch and don’t have any other products on hand. But the only shedding this is going to stop is contact shedding when you tap it. There will be some transfer if you run your finger in the glitter.

I love using clear acrylic spray! This is a great sealant that dries in a couple of minutes. The disadvantage is the fumes. But those disappear when the spray paint cures. I really don’t notice glitter loss through touch or contact/tapping. The finish is also the best option. However, you might see a dulling of the glitter’s sparkle depending on which brand you use.

If you have the time, polycrylic paint is the best as far as it goes to completely seal in all the glitter. This can be the determining factor if someone in your house, or the person you’re gifting too, hates glitter with a passion. This is completely sealed and there is no glitter loss. Just be aware that the fumes are strong and curing can take 24-48 hours. But the fumes will dissipate. I highly recommend that you dab polycrylic on. If you try to brush it on, you will get streaks, glitter will clump on your brush, and there will be brush tracks in your glitter.

How do you like using glitter?

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Surprise Gift

It never fails that a moment in life comes when you forgot to get someone a gift or you received a last minute invitation. What do you do?

There’s a couple of things that I keep in my craft room all the time: fabric, ribbon, card stock, picture frames, paint, beads… You get the idea.

We had the privilege of meeting our neighbor’s parents, who came for a visit from halfway around the world. It’s amazing to see how much you can connect with people, especially when you don’t speak the same language. And even more amazing when you find out that you share some similar interests and find commonality.

It’s even more special when you receive an invitation to be a part of celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary.

I’ve been married for over a decade. So much has changed in the world since that day. I tried to think of how much the world will change in another 50. It blows my mind.

What is it like to celebrate a 60th anniversary in another country–one you may or may not have thought you’d be in when you were younger?

Of course I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to celebrate and honor a long lasting relationship like this. And while thinking about how to give a meaningful gift, with little personal history, and something that’s not burdensome for when they return home, I chose to focus on the memories. Celebrating the last 60 years of their memories together and giving them a memento of this trip, this moment in time.

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My husband had taken a group picture at the end of a visit where we had them over and made for them their first American meal. I chose a picture because it travels well and is minimalistic for those who gravitate to that way of life. But I also couldn’t pass up giving some flowers because it’s something that brings happiness in the moment.

So for this quick to gather gift that’s pack full of memories and meaning, here’s an idea for you to consider the next time you need to find a gift in under two hours.

Pick a photo of you and the other person from your phone and send it to a local place that can print it out in an hour.

While that is processing you can stop by a shop, florist, road side stand, farmer’s market, or garden and gather some flowers that have meaning.

In this instance I chose sunflowers because with our guests, they saw the sunflower I had grown from seed and we talked about sunflowers and sunflower oil for quite some time. Sunflowers may not be their favorite flower, but in this gift, it’s a nod to something we connected with in the middle of a language barrier.

It just so happened that at home I had a vase on a shelf that I was saving for a time to reuse by gifting to someone, and I had some fabric with sunflower print on them.

As you notice here, sunflowers can be awkward if they’re not bundled. So I decided to bundle the flowers with a strip of cloth.

For a professional look of wrapping a bouquet, you want to first trim down the fabric you want to use into a strip. No matter how nicely you cut, the fabric will always fray. To give a clean edge, you want to press the strip of fabric. First, fold and press the raw edge. Then you’ll tri-fold and press the fabric into a wide ribbon. Now the edges won’t fray on you and you didn’t have to sew.

To make this wrap, you want to put one edge of the ribbon between the stems. Then you can wrap it tightly around the bouquet without the ribbon slipping on you.

When you get to the end of the ribbon, you want to fold the ribbon up at a 90° angle. The tuck this final edge down behind the wrap, between the stems. If the wrap is snug, it will hold the ribbon in place without using tape, pins, glue, or any other fastener.

The beauty of making a wrap like this is that the person you are gifting this to can use the fabric after the flowers are long gone. If this person is sentimental, they will no doubt find a way of repurposing and reusing this strip of fabric.

Don’t forget to use a small scrap of the fabric to make a card that matches.

Here, I took a piece of 8.5 x 11″ sheet of card stock and trimmed along the short edge a strip 4″ wide. This strip I folded in half to make a blank card that is 4 x 4.25″.

Using the left over sunflower fabric, I decided how wide of a ribbon I wanted to glue to the front of the card. You can be as precise as you want to be. I chose to wing it and just cut the fabric into a small strip.

This time I had to be careful about the edge because there’s no room for a folded seam. This fabric print looks good with a frayed edge, so I saved time by just removing the stray threads and embrace the fray. (As opposed to if I need to have a very clean edge and have to cut a straight edge.) Now the sides and bottom of the card need to have a straight edge, so I leave this ribbon large and will cut it down after I glue it to the cardstock.

For gluing the ribbon down, you want to decide where you want to place it and mark off the area. You will need to liberally apply glue to prevent fraying on the card, so drawing a glue line is very important. Make sure that where you draw the line will be hidden behind the ribbon, so make sure the line is lower than where you want it. Apply the glue and spread it evenly across the whole section, even over the edges. If you don’t put glue on the edges, the fabric will lift from the cardstock.

Gently lay the ribbon on top of the glue and make any adjustments that you need. When you are satisfied, take a scraper or plastic card, place it in the middle of the ribbon and press it to the edge of the card. Then place the scraper/card in the middle and press down in the opposite direction. This will secure your fabric to the card and remove any air pockets that may have been present.

Now that your ribbon is secure, you can flip the card over. With a pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric.

I trim from the back because I can see exactly where the edge of the cardstock is.

The blank card is now ready for you to write you message on.

By now, your pictures should be ready to pick up. Once you have them, you can place them in a picture frame and you’re ready to bag or wrap your present.

From this gift given, the part of the gift that meant the most was the blessing that I wrote inside the card.

In today’s world, a blessing spoken over another person is something that’s not talked about. But it’s the most powerful gift that we can give another person. And to have those words writing for the person you’re gifting to read over and over again is life changing.

If you are unfamiliar with a blessing, it’s what you tell someone that you see in them now, but you also what you desire for their future. Instead of “I hope you have a happy birthday” or anniversary, I tell the person what I want to see in their lives for this coming year or the years moving forward.

In a time where people are struggling to see their purpose in life, why they matter, the most important thing you can give a person is a vision of something to look forward to. And the best part about a blessing that you speak over a person is that it’s not something that can be bought. It shows the person that you see them, you value them, and that they have a purpose to live for.

Whether you’re looking for making a meaningful gift on a tight budget, don’t know what to give a person, need an impactful last minute gift, or any other reason, know that you can speak into a person’s life and it means more to them than anything else you give them. So no matter what your gift giving situation is, know that a blessing from you can be the most impactful thing that you can give another person.

Never underestimate the power of your words.

And don’t hesitate to gift a blessing!


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One response to “Surprise Gift”

  1. Roy Avatar

    Hi to every one, tthe comtents prsent aat this web pzge are really remarkable foor peolle knowledge,
    well, keerp up the good wotk fellows.

    Like

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