Taming Fly Aways!

I know these are common problems for family get-togethers. Either, your family is so large, that when you have a pot luck style meal there is always the problem of not having enough table space. Or your family is enjoying the sun with a BBQ and you spend more time than you can admit chasing down paper plates, napkins, and even silverware.

My family suffers from both of these problems. Every year.

Inspiration hit when I watched this video, tutorial using dollar store Jenga Blocks, from She So CraftDee. This video was so well put together with directions, that I don’t want to recreate what this talented woman did. So I will just direct you to her video if you want to learn how to create structures using Jenga Blocks. Instead, I will proceed with the road blocks I faced while working with this tecnique and how I made this Paper Goods Caddy.

Materials

  • (54) Jenga Blocks (I used 48 of one style of blocks and 6 blocks of another style)
  • Hot Glue Gun and Glue
  • Multi-Purpose Cement 0.5 fl oz (E6200 would be the best choice)
  • Ruler (Optional)
  • Paint
  • 1.25″ Nails
  • Hammer
  • (14) 0.5″ Wood Cubes
  • (3) Square Pen Holders
  • Glitter Paper
  • Metal Gift Tag
  • Vinyl
  • Transfer Tape
  • Elmer’s Glue
  • Glitter
  • Acrylic Paint Pen (optional)
  • Flat Face Rhinestones (optional)
  • Jewelry & Metal Glue (optional)

Project Dimensions

The overall dimensions are 17″ wide by 6.5″ high by 7.5″ deep. The interior of the silverware holder squares are 2.5″. The plate holder is 9.5″ wide by 1.75″ deep. The napkin holder is 7.5″ wide by 1.75″ deep.

This accommodates 9″ paper plates and standard sized napkins. In the picture are 9″ plates and cocktail napkins (6.5″). The dimensions can be adjusted according to your family needs.

Before I jump into how to assemble this caddy, I want to start with the pitfall of gluing options.

She So CraftDee only uses hot glue. I do want to draw attention to the fact that it’s not just any hot glue stick, but wood glue. Full disclosure, I have not yet worked with hot wood glue so I cannot attest to the strength or durability. But for the crafter who does not use hot wood glue or have never heard about it, it is not going to function the same way as the standard glue stick that you have in your craft stash. So please do not expect standard hot glue to work like hot wood glue.

I have decorated in enough wedding and other events that, professionally, I would not put trust in wood glue alone to hold a vase that holds water and everything else that adds weight. An LED pillar light is only going to weigh ounces. However, the weight of a glass vase filled with water, stones, flowers, and anything else of weight is going to add up quickly. There is no telling if and when glue will fail. So I would highly recommend that you reinforce your build in the legs and the base frame so that you can rest assured that you won’t have a catastrophe on your table tops. Wood glue and standard hot glue would all be adequate for any non-weight baring sides.

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Because this Paper Goods Caddy is a functional piece, you will definitely need to use something much more substantial, for reinforcement. I used Multi-Purpose Cement (from the dollar store) as my primary gluing option, with the use of standard hot glue to hold the blocks in place while the Cement cured. For a home craft, the Multi-Purpose Cement is a good choice if you just need a little bit of glue. You will use the full 0.5 fl oz tube for this project. However if you are a professional, I would recommend E6200 over all other glue.

TIP #1: Examine your Jenga Blocks. You want to make sure they are solid wood with no cracks, grooves, or holes. The cheaper Jenga Blocks do not give you the easiest surfaces to work with. I had a couple of blocks that had a gaping hole where the wood was laminated together. The glue went straight down to my work surface. If sanding doesn’t give you a smooth working surface, paint your blocks. The glue actually held much better to the painted surface than the laminated wood surface. Plus, the paint fills the gapes and grooves for you. Just be sure to let your paint dry overnight.

TIP #2: If you are using colored blocks, like I did, set up the pattern that you want your bricks to be in before you start gluing. This will keep your pattern uniform in the front and the back.

Prep the Silverware Holder

Please feel free to decorate the silverware holders in your personal style. However if you want to recreate what you see in the pictures, these are the steps that I took.

  1. Paint the top 2/3 of the pen holder with white acrylic paint. (Allow to dry.)
  2. Paint the bottom 1/2 with teal acrylic paint. (Allow to dry.)
  3. Cut Glitter Paper (or vinyl of choice) into 2.5″ strips (the number will vary depending on the length of your Glitter Paper or vinyl choice). Also cut 3 additional strips at 1″.
  4. Slide a 2.5″ strip into a box and crease the edge. (This will give you the cleanest edge and prevent you from mismeasuring the inside of the box.) Trim on the crease.
  5. Remove the backing and place on the inside face of the box.
  6. Repeat 4-5 for the remaining 11 inside faces of the three boxes.
  7. Take a 1″ strip of Glitter Paper and apply it to the bottom outside edge of the pen holder box.
  8. Tack the edge of the Glitter Paper closed with a dot of glue.
  9. Repeat steps 7-8 for the other two pen holder boxes.
  10. Glue two of your boxes together, Glitter Paper seam sides together. Use a very liberal amount of Multi-Purpose Cement in the center, with a rectangular frame of Hot Glue. NOTE: Hot Glue does leave a gap between items glued together. So if you want zero gap please use Cement only. You will need to clamp together the boxes until the glue dries (an estimate of 1-2 hours).
  11. Set Aside for Assembly.
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Prep Gift Tag

  1. Take a left over piece of 2.5″ strip of Glitter Paper. If it is large enough, wrap it around from top front, down, over the bottom edge, and up the back side. If it is not large enough, take two pieces that fully cover the front and back and cover each side.
  2. Trim the edges of the Glitter Paper that run over the edge of the metal gift tag.
  3. Create the hole, matching the metal gift tag, by piercing the Glitter Paper covering the hold.
  4. Using your cutting machine, cut “Family” (or any other phrase of choice). The Font I used was Chunky Confetti.
  5. After you weed your vinyl, apply “Family” with transfer tape onto your gift tag.

Prep the Paper Goods’ Feet (Optional)

My oldest son informed me that we needed to add a bottom so that the napkins and the plates could stay in the holder. He was concerned about his grandma having to put in and take out her paper goods. So I designed this so that the Caddy is not just a holder, but it’s a moveable container that can keep the goods in and be easy storage.

  1. Take 7 of the 1″ cubes and glue them end to end. This is one foot.
  2. Repeat with the other 7 cubes to make a second foot.

NOTE: you can use Hot Glue for this prep because the feet will not hold a lot of weight. I chose to the Multi-Purpose Cement because I have clamps, and I want to ensure that in the heat of the summer sun, the hot glue will not soften and become weak.

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Paper Goods Caddy Assembly

From my stash of Jenga Blocks, I wanted to use ones with colored ends, but didn’t have enough. So this is the reason why I used 48 blocks of one style and 6 blocks of another style (which were used on the sides of the plate holder). The two different styles of blocks had different heights, which lends to the floating brick illusion. The floating bricks could be more prominent by using an even smaller set of Jenga Blocks, still using the 2 row build.

  1. Mark off your Jenga Blocks. My blocks were about 3″ wide so I drew two lines at inch increments so that I could work fast and glue all the bricks together uniformly.
  2. Glue together your two row sections, 3 bricks on top of two. In the inch section I put a large circle of Cement with two dabs of Hot Glue on either side. Once Hot Glue dries, you are free to move on to the next piece to glue.
  3. You will have 6 sets of two rows.
  4. Glue together your napkin face plate, starting with the rows. Make 2 sets of 3 blocks, glued together end to end. And make 2 sets of 2 blocks, glued end to end.
  5. Start with the base and work your way up. One top of one of the 3 blocks, center a 2 block set and also glue on the arms that will attach to the plate holder. On top of the two arms and the set of two, glue on the other set of 3. On top of that glue on the last section of 2.
  6. Set the base for your plate section, by making 2 corners. If you are using two different sized blocks for a floating brick look, your larger blocks will be used here on the sides (they are the unpainted bricks in my photos). Glue your side piece on top of your front and back corner piece. Do this for the other side. NOTE: your center bottom piece is not going to be attached to anything for a few steps, so set those off to the side for the moment.
  7. Space out your corners by setting a two row section on top, do not glue.
  8. With your corners set, remove the two row section without moving the base corners, place your napkin face plate. Once you have the napkin face plate center, you know where to add the Cement and a single dab of Hot Glue.
  9. This amount of glue is not enough to keep the napkin face plate in place, so you will need to hammer one nail into each arm of the face place, into the base corner, so that it will offer the stability to the napkin face plate.
  10. Glue the two row section, which you used to space the corner sections, onto the middle arms on the side of the plate section. Use a dab of Cement and Hot Glue.
  11. Repeat this last step with a two row section for the back of the plate section.
  12. Glue a side arm, on top of the two row sections, on each side.
  13. Repeat steps 10-12 to form the middle of the plate section.
  14. Repeat steps 10-11 to form the top of the plate section.
  15. Turn the Caddy upside down and glue in the middle sections that were set off to the side, back in step 6.
  16. To reinforce the face plate a second time, you will use 4 nails to nail both sides of the left and right Jenga Blocks above it.
  17. Where you would like to add glitter, paint on your glue and apply glitter.
  18. (Optional) Use your acrylic pen and draw on a frame around the front edge of each of your blocks, front and back.
  19. (Optional) To add gems, place a dot of Jewelry & Metal Glue where you would like to add your Rhinestones. You can glam this up as much as you want, including using only Rhinestones instead of glitter (step 17).
  20. Hot Glue your “Family” Gift Tag to the Napkin Faceplate.
  21. Glue the single silverware box, upright on the right hand side. Apply the Multi-Purpose Cement Glue and Hot Glue onto the Jenga Blocks (to the height of the silverware box). Attach the silverware box.
  22. Tip the Cady on its side so you can position the Double Silverware Box. As you look at the side of the Cady, note that the middle row is the front of the Plate Holder. Use the Jenga block to create a 45° angle. The front bottom of the Silverware Box is lined up with the bottom edge of that middle Jenga Block. The top back edge of the box will be in alignment with the front of that back row of the Plate holder.
  23. Remove the double box and apply the Multi-Purpose Glue and Hot Glue to the side of the Cady where the Double Box will sit.
  24. Attach the Double Box to the Caddy.
  25. Turn the bottom of the Caddy upside down and apply Multi-Purpose Glue and small dabs of Hot Glue to the two recessed sections of the middle row.
  26. Attached the two feet, centered on that middle 4th square, into those recessed sections.

Congratulations! You have completed a space saving Paper Goods’ Caddy.

Please leave a comment how this caddy turned out for you.

If you’ve seen a project that you want more information on how to make, please let me know so I can set you up for success!

Empty Tomb is now live. 100% of preceeds will go to the support of orphans in Rwanda.

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Under the Dome

Using Cloches for Centerpieces

I know that one of the biggest things to make right now are shadow boxes. And I LOVE them just as much as the next person. However, the one disadvantage they have is that they only have one viewing direction. So while shadow boxes are great for decorating homes, they lack greatly when it comes to decorating for events.

And that is where Cloches come in!

Think of a cloche as shadow box that can be viewed 360°, perfect for centerpieces.

What I have for you today is a spring cloche that can inspire you for whatever you are looking to create unique decor for your events. Whether you’re looking for a wedding, a Princess birthday party, displaying an heirloom or memory… you are only limited by your imagination.

Supply List

  • 5.7 x 3.6 inch / 14.4 x 9.1 cm High Cloche Dome
  • 3 meter fairy lights, battery operated
  • Floral Moss
  • Hot Glue Gun and Glue
  • Card Stock
  • Butterfly Cut File
  • Flower Cut File
  • White glue (I prefer wood glue)
  • Fabric (optional)
  • Green Floral Wire
  • Needle Nose Pliers with Wire Cutter
  • Tension Tweezers
  • Masking or Painter’s Tape
  • Flat-back Rhinestone Crystals
  • Jewelry & Metal Glue

Cloche Base

The perfect thing about this cloche, when it comes to lighting, is that there was a hole that I could thread the fairy lights through. This made it possible to hot glue the battery pack/switch to the bottom of the cloche, making it invisible. If you choose to also go this route for your lighting, I recommend that you glue the battery pack in such a way that you can unscrew the battery pack and change out the batteries without needing to remove it from the cloche base.

Once the pack is secure, you can flip the base over and position the wires on the top of the base.

Tip: before securing down the wires, place the cloche dome down on top and see how it’s positioned in relation to the base. With this particular cloche, the dome rests inside the lip/edge of the bottom. So if I had put one of the bulbs right up against the lip/edge, then my dome would not be able to sit flat when place over the finished project.

After trying a few different gluing options, I found the best way of securing the wires and moss was the following way. Bend the wire how you want the lights to go. Avoiding the bulbs, you will put dabs of hot glue on the wire and press the moss down on top of the glue. (If you have a silicone finger cot, you can press down directly with your finger without being burned by the glue.

Tip: To maximize the amount of light shining up from the moss, make sure you do not cover the bulbs. You may think you will have holes, but if you look in later pictures you will see that these holes are absolutely not visible. So work with the lights on. You will immediately see true blank holes vs. light holes.

With the base now complete, it’s time to move on to the paper components.

Flowers and Butterfly

With your cutting machine, cut out 2 Butterflies, 4 Flowers, 1 Leaf, and 1 Stem. Because I already had green floral wire, I did not cut out the paper stem. I included the paper stem in case you did not have green wire but wanted to have a cover for a different wire, or even wanted to make the stem completely out of paper. If you choose to make a paper stem, roll it cigar style and glue the edge down. You can use masking or painters tape to hold the edge down while the glue dries.

(Reference Note: The Butterfly I cut was 3 inches tall. As you can see later on the Butterfly takes up all the space. So for this size of cloche, a larger Butterfly is not going to fit. And you are more than welcome to make the Butterfly smaller and even add a few of the smaller size.)

Butterfly

The two Butterflies are the front and back of your Butterfly. Inside these cut out pieces you can place cardstock, tissue paper, fabric, or whatever material you are inspired to use. Glue your first Butterfly down, trim that inner section the Butterfly. This will make it very easy to glue down that second Butterfly and make everything line up.

Tip: If your cardstock has a white core, you can take a marker with a matching color, and make a coordinating edge.

Set the Butterfly to aside and let dry.

Flowers

Using tension tweezers (or other coiling took of choice), roll the flower. At the end of the line, apply an L-shaped dab of glue, and close the flower. The tension tweezers are great for holding that edge down while the glue dries. Or if this is the first of the flowers, masking or painters tape can hold your edge in place for the glue to dry while you move on to the next flower.

To shape the leaf, run a crease down most of the length of the leaf, from the bottom up. At the top of the leaf, coil it around a finger. This will give a gentle bend. If you make the gentle finger coil go off to one side, you will find that you give it a realistic bend.

Stem

While the glue dries, let’s prep the Stem. This picture is a little deceiving; I had cut it before measuring how this size of Butterfly would fit inside the cloche. For a 3 inch tall Butterfly, all you need is a 2.5″ wire. On the bottom of your wire, use your needle nose pliers and form a circle, to make a stand.

When the Butterfly is dry, use your weeding tool or other thin object to bend the wings of your butterfly up.

When the glue on the flowers is dry, it’s time to shape the petals. If you keep the petals flat, but spread them downward, you will have a mum looking blossom. I chose to curl the petals downward and then crease the center. If you can keep the edges a little rounded downward, it has a chrysanthemum appearance. Either way, I wanted the white cardstock as an accenting color, and there are so many white flowers that have this shape, that it has a simple generic look that is just pleasing. Especially if you’re new paper flowers, this one is easy to play with and assemble.

Assembly

With hot glue, apply the glue on the bottom of the first blossom and insert the tip of the wire into the bottom center of the blossom. With the second blossom, add glue, and attach it to the side of the stem. The third blossom, add glue, and position it on the other side of the stem a little lower on the second blossom.

There is a little crevice between the second and third blossoms. Add glue to the wire and position the Butterfly. When these components are set, glue dried, position the wire circle base around a light bulb. (This will cause the light to still give an up light effect and not be covered.) Once you have the wire base where you want it positioned, apply a liberal amount of glue on top of the wire. Before you press down, apply more moss on top of the glue. Now when you press down, you will secure the stem and hide the glue at the same time. Near the base of the stem, add a drop of glue and place the leaf.

The fourth flower can be glued anywhere on the moss covered ground.

For further ground embellishments you could add anything you can imagine; a car, Poly Pocket accessory, miniature figurine, rock, sea shell, anything. In the second picture above you will notice what looks like a gold stone. In fact, my husband thought that I had added a gold nugget from of the boys’ games. In truth, this “stone” is the gold glitter stick that I had to clean out of my hot glue gun. I just let that pool on my desktop and dried as a puddle, instead of throwing it out.

This cloche is ready to go as is or you can further embellish it.

Further Embellishments

I always love to add more. In fact, this butterfly was really begging to be fully blinged out. However, for this moment I chose to show some restraint so I don’t look like the crazy bling lady.

From here on out the jewelry & metal glue works perfectly. It holds while wet and dries quickly.

Please take note on the first picture above. If you haven’t worked with crystals before, these tools description might help you have fun placing the stones. The two tools that came with the crystals that I bought were the tweezers and the white “pencil”. In my opinion, the tweezers were the most difficult tool. The problem with them is that these tweezers didn’t have grips on the tip. These ones were the smooth tip tweezers. If you think this is going to be slippery work for you, I can promise you it is. I shot a handful of stones across my work space before giving up. The white “pencil” doesn’t feel sticky, but when you press down on the stone with the tip, it grips the stones. Kind of. I couldn’t get the “pencil” to pick up the small stones that I used on the edge of the wing. However it was absolutely perfect for the larger stones that I used near the center of the wings and on the body.

Fortunately for me, I had another tool in my craft room. I do the crystal paintings and had one of those complementary placement tools (the pink tool in the picture). It still had a little residual glue in the gap and it was a dream picking up the smaller stones that I used on the wing edge.

However, the tweezers were the perfect tool for placing the pearls in the center of the flowers.

Tip: If you’re new to paper flowers, and noted to yourself that some of the blossoms look a little wonky, pearl placement is going to be your life saver. In the close up picture, above, you will notice that there were three pearls that I used. Yes, that was a wonky flower. It got away from me. But the great things about flowers are that they can grow in clusters. And so there is no shame in strategically placing flower centers so you can make a misshaped flower into a cluster of two or three flowers.

Now that we’re finished with the assembly, we’re ready to put the dome on.

The only thing left to talk about is the difference between plastic and glass cloches. As you can see here, even though you don’t have to worry about the dome breaking when it’s plastic, you will note that it’s definitely not as clear looking as it would be if it were glass. If you are looking to just do a fun project, a project for a beginner crafter, or need to be particularly frugal, the plastic dome is probably going to be the cloche of choice. If you are looking for a wedding or to have a high impression impact, you most definitely want to opt for the glass cloche. My personal preference is the glass cloches, but realistically I live in a young child home with curious boys.

Everyone’s choices are going to be different. But I cannot stress enough…

IF you are doing a wedding, please do not opt for cheap. The wow factor is going to be from glass or higher quality of plastic than you find at the dollar store. However, if you are on a very tight budget (Absolutely No Shame Here!!!) and the dollar store cloche is the only thing in your budget here are my tips:

  • Select only the domes that are clear and free of scratches.
  • Between now and your event, try to not handle the dome.
  • You will be tempted to try your dome over the decor. Buy one extra cloche and use that dome as your dome tester.
  • While you are working with glue, keep it away from the dome. Especially the jewelry & metal glue. You may think you didn’t get any glue on the dome. …and then it dries.

In fact, it’s a good practice, whether glass or plastic, to always have one extra dome on hand. Accidents happen, especially on site.

Please email or comment below with pictures of what you create! I want to see what cloche you make.

Thank you for crafting with me!

Files Used Today

Cloche Butterfly & Flower are found here.

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